ZZegna AW14

Initial reaction:

The quintessential modernist: insolent mods leave Milan at a cult end.

How they wore it:

With dark bowl cuts, long sideburns and choppy fringes cut high on the forehead. Sleeve garters were worn throughout, giving the silhouettes a uniform but also insolent look, as they were used in such a non-traditional, nonchalant way. Pronounced trouser turn ups and chunky patent monk shoes cemented the young mod feel.

Stand out look:

The hybrid coat, where a nylon-look raincoat upper merged into blue wool, divided by a drawstring waist and deep navy bucket pockets. A voluminous padded jacket was made further bizarre in silhouette by the tight sleeve garters.

Deconstructive details:

Classic pinstripe and check menswear tailoring were challenged by deconstruction, like the front-only suit jacket, with a back formed of cross-over braces, and a city coat reimagined in brushed wool plaid with padded lapels.

Colour impressions:

Grey sweaters worn over indigo tartan trousers, and yellow and black stripe polo necks felt punk and rebellious. Russet red coats worn with mustard yellow and navy were youthful and fun.