Christopher Raeburn AW14

Initial reaction:

Survivalist chic: heavy environmental politics underpinned a collection of arctic coats, heavy duty boots and polar bear prints.

Rethink, remake:

Raeburn pushed home his political allegiance with pieces created from sourced garments, as part of his Remade sustainability project. Siberian officer’s sheepskin coats became polar bear like coats and jackets, while German military sleeping bags became light weight padded parkas.

Atmosphere:

The white-painted walls of Victoria House created an igloo-like set, while pre-show the space filled with the sounds of boots on snow, polar bears growling and howling arctic wind. Models appeared to ice cracking over a threatening bass.

How they wore it?

Padding over padding over padding: quilting on tops, jackets and backpacks. With expedition size duffel bags, smooth silhouettes from neoprene-like finishes and drawstring detailing on jackets.

Quote of the show:

“The sheepskin is part my Remade project: they’re originally Russian big winter coats, basically Siberian officer’s coats that we deconstructed to work into what you see here. I think there’s something quite interesting with what we do in terms of craft, in terms of skills. I went to see the exhibition Last Days of the Arctic, and what really struck me was Ragnar Axelsson, an Icelandic photographer who’s been documenting a disappearing world for the last 30, 40 years. And obviously because of what we do with sustainability, I think it’s really important.” Christopher Raeburn