A house revered for its perception-pushing grasp on fashion, Maison Martin Margiela still knows how to make a point with subtlety. Departing from the ruffian patchwork furs and knits of last season, SS14 presented a clean slate pinned on the house’s hallmark tailoring and construction. A silhouette that began sharp and clean in a palette of charcoal, black and blanc gradually unraveled, translucency and metallics injected via thin knits and tasseled waistcoats. Short, squared-off tunics matched the pants layered underneath in a look that androgynously harked back to SS13 womenswear.

This collection was titled Masks of Time and Memories, a fitting tag for a house so well versed in the art of mystery and disguise. Even the models had an otherworldly air to them, in line with Margiela’s knack for casting with intrigue. As the collection progressed to a climax, beige gave way to a rich array of violent blues cast across strong outerwear and even a killer paneled bomber. A boxy suit jacket, lapel spread to reveal the inkiness underneath, closed the show as a reminder of the cleverness that subtly permeates every Margiela design.