There’s been a lot of tension surrounding British menswear recently. So many issues remain unspoken – from its ongoing commerciality to the strange disconnect between established and emerging designers. However, one of the biggest unspoken issues lies with David Gandy, an ambassador for LC:M, who during a recent interview on Alan Carr’s Chatty Man openly insulted the highly sculptural work of Craig Green. There was never an apology, nor did the industry ever acknowledge the issue. Apparently this season he requested a ticket for Craig’s show, but it was rejected.
So when Craig Green sent a tribe of faceless, psychedelic acid print covered sculptures down the runway I couldn’t help but breathe a sigh of relief. Someone had finally done it. Craig had made the biggest possible statement about the underlying issues in British menswear. What’s more, he took his “clumsy, chunky” aesthetic to new heights. His silhouettes were distorted, prints were hand-dyed and his hems were left raw. Like last season, Craig gave us a strong visual; but this time he created this strange rhythm on the runway where block colours of navy, black and white were set aside bright psychedelic prints. It was a spectacular show and reinforced his position as one of London’s most visionary menswear designers – whether Gandy agrees or not.