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Photography Jacques Habbah

Rochas AW13

Craving a voluminous double duchesse silk chine couture coat? Zanini's your go-to

Marco Zanini doesn’t stray far from what he knows – and what he knows is how to cut a coat with undulating waves at the back in stiffened double duchesse silk chine, so voluminous and decadent, that it almost needs a show of its own. Zanini has always been playing with mid 20th century haute couture shapes, sticking to those ideals of beauty and twisting or having fun with it when necessary. On this season's press release, the words "reassuring," "dignified," and "sense of self" jump out at you. That nonchalant confidence translated into the tropes that Zanini has explored brilliantly during his tenure at Rochas – the wide ball skirt, the ribbed and refined knits (this time punched with silk), the languid pyjama set, and as mentioned before, those wonderfully gigantic opera coats.

As the models descended down a grand hôtel particulier staircase, they serenely glided towards you, quietly confident in their sartorial ease. These aren't girls constantly looking for the new or the bold. They know what they like and so does Zanini, knowing what he does best.

Hair: Eugene Souleiman

Makeup: Lucia Pieroni

Models pictured: Franzi Mueller-@FranziMueller_, Maja Salamon-@majasalamon, Hedvig Palm-@Hedvig_Palm, Kel Markey-@kelmarkey, Sara Blomqvist-@SBlomqvist, Karlina Caune-@kkkarlie, Iris van Berne-@irisvberne, Sam Rollinson-@SamRollinson