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Sam Rollinson at Select, @SamRollinsonPhotography Luca Campri

Prada AW13

Illusion, mystery and throwing things off balance, as Miuccia even makes damp hair alluring in Milan

Nothing was quite as it seemed at Prada AW13, everything felt a little off balance. Buttons were undone, garments slid off the shoulder and coats were held together by a piece of fabric tied together at the back. If the setting of the show was any indication, then Miuccia Prada was dedicating this collection to subtle illusions. On entering the space, projections were screened onto the walls, forming a hue of washed out reds and inky greens – think of the tones of a Gerhard Richter painting. They played out the dark shadows of human figures and cats, which ocasionally moved across the space at irrational moments. Were these shadows real, live or pre-recorded?  Miuccia wanted us to be curious.

There was also a certain mystery that surrounded the collection itself. Accompanied by an eerie soundtrack, models appeared with wet and dishevelled hair swept across their face. Although garments felt more reserved that seasons before, it was all about the subtle detail. A-line skirts featured embellished inserts and assymetric details that were attatched to the original silhouettes, throwing things off balance. Large turned-up cuffs added volume to classic coats, often using brown fur against bright blue leather, whilst most garments were cinched in at the waist. If there was a reference to the past for this collection, it was reinforced by the appearance of 90s Prada model Esther de Jong towards the end of the show.

Hair: Guido Palau

Makeup: Pat McGrath

Models pictured: Hanne Gaby Odiele (@hannegabysays), Daria Strokous (@DariaStrokous), Daphne Groeneveld (@daphgroeneveld), Marte Mei van Haaster (@martevanhaaser), Sung Hee Kim (@kimssung2), Chiharu Okunugi (@chiharuuu0515), Sam Rollinson (@SamRollinson), Bette Franke (@Bette_Franke), Mariacalrla Boscono (@MariacarlaBoscono), Catherine McNeil (@MeowcatMccat), Liisa Winkler (@liisawinker1), Juliana Schurig (@juliana_schurig), Andreea Diaconu (@andreeadiaconu_), Cora Emmanuel (@coraemmanuel), Suvi Koponen (@SuviMK), Fei Fei Sun (@FeiFeiSunSun), Lindsey Wixson (@lindseywixson)