Lucas Nascimento's jewel-like collection, shown at the Tanks, cemented his status as the designer to watch in London, following last season's graphic outing with a sophisticated line-up that pushed his boundaries further.

Yes, there were glorious carpet-like jacquards but the foundation was silk bonded to wool, giving a hidden ease to looks that evoked a 20s Jazz Age glamour, a note via sax that recurred on the otherwise industrial soundtrack. Clever, since on repeat glance, the vocabulary was very much his modern sportswear.

What's been a great in-the-know collection of the London schedule the past few seasons is poised to be so no longer. But we're glad about that. Nascimento is ready to emerge from the shadows, so British Fashion Council take note.

www.lucasnascimento.com

Hair: Naoki Komiya