Unlike some designers who grandly proclaim anything from Dadaist art movements to Salem Witch trials as their source of inspiration, Victor Glemaud's collections unpretentiously and proudly takes himself as the starting point. "It's based on the way I like to dress. There's elements of me in there and elements of friends and people."

Much like the man behind it, Glemaud's clothes are utterly charming yet modern and playfully elegant. Only in his 3rd season, this former publicist for KCD and design advisor at Paco Rabanne, (alongside mentor, Patrick Robinson) is distinguishing himself among his American contemporaries with a sense of fun and colour sorely lacking in menswear. "After Paco Rabanne closed, I went to Ibiza with some friends and decided to do a collection. The first season was very DIY.

I cut up some cardigans, did them up and I showed them. The 2nd season was refining that and making it more chic and wearable. With F/W 07 I wanted this one to be a bit more tonal, more elegant"
Much like Thom Browne in his shrunken suits, Glemaud is his own best advertisement. "Men are afraid of colour because it's hard to wear. For me, I do colour because it's what looks good on me." His tip is to "ground it in something real and not so fashiony. Like a classic pant. It needs to be with a respectable shoe". True to this, his collection features beautifully tailored tuxedo shirts, trousers and shorts; and always feature sturdy brogues.

His knitwear is rightfully bringing him to attention - deconstructed and soft enough to be layered. His signature piece is the double cardigan, innovated with trompe l'oeil effects, in punchy yellow, violet and electric blue. "I wanted to expand on the knitwear shapes but bring it to a new place. I wanted it to be a bit more sexy." And what should we expect for S/S 08? "I want to do sexy graduation!"