Shaun Samson, Agi & Sam and Astrid Andersen drew inspiration from grunge, Miami Vice and spiritualism
It was a strong showing for S/S13 from the three chosen Fashion East MAN designers, Astrid Andersen (who we previewed on Friday), Shaun Samson and Agi & Sam. A great and mixed combination of styles and aesthetics came through from each designer. Andersen's take on sportswear silhouettes was accentuated with bright pops of colour and print, Samson came through with a 90s stoner rock vibe set against Japanese 'kawai' style references and Agi & Sam's nod to Magnum PI with 80s tailoring brought up to date and interjected with fantastic print techniques. Each have a very defined look and each have been gradually building over the last couple of seasons and this showing felt like a big leap forward for each of them.
This season was about growing up. Season's in the past have been about youth and running a muck on the streets but this time I wanted it to be more mature. The cuts are more fitted, I experimented with cutting on the body and then also with chrome embellishment
The establishment of London Collections Men this year has very much been about creating a platform to showcase our talent of course, but also about giving designers the opportunity to make timely contact with buyers. With that comes a level of pressure to provide something commercial but also forward thinking and that was seemingly the graduation each of the MAN designers successfully achieved today.
Agi & Sam – Sam Cotton
“We were looking at Miami Vice and Magnum P.I. The story of the collection was about going to your Grandma's and being made to watch all these rubbish detective programmes. A lot of the prints were taken from upholstery fabrics which we scanned, reworked and developed. I loved the constant moustache's that we put on each model, a total throwback to those programmes”.
“This season was about growing up. Season's in the past have been about youth and running a muck on the streets but this time I wanted it to be more mature. The cuts are more fitted, I experimented with cutting on the body and then also with chrome embellishment. I was also really interested in how Japanese culture see American culture, which is where the super cute kitten prints and applique was inspired from. I think my flatmate got it completely right when he described it as a stoner rock collection, it's not really Nirvana grunge, but maybe Weezer”.
“I was exploring a spiritual path, I find it quite interesting how the gym has almost replaced the church. The guy I am working around spends a lot of his time in there and likes the atmosphere of the brotherhood you get there. It really is like a religion for the guy that I am fascinated by. It's about dedication to himself, the way that working out at the gym becomes his best styling prop because it makes him feel super confident. The lace I used this season and last is such an interesting idea to me, it is considered very much womenswear but I think if a guy has the right attitude he can wear almost anything and still retain his masculinity”.