EXCLUSIVE: Masha Ma Womenswear A/W12

Masha Ma works between Shanghai and Paris, where her collection stylist Andrej Skok is based. Having shown three times with Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Ma prepares to make her Paris standalone catwalk debut this afternoon at the Hotel Westin. Here she shares her moodboard and previews design sketches with Dazed Digital – as well as elaborating on what to expect...

"I met [collection stylist Andrej Skok] nearly four years ago but it felt like we knew each other from a past last life. We understand each other in so many ways that no words are needed, working very closely together but researching separately. We then come back to each other and share our thoughts to build the collection just before the show.

My signatures this season are jackets with unfolded fur collars and multi-layered coats; coats and cropped jackets suggesting a sculpted winter silhouette

Autumn/Winter 12 is inspired by Oscar Wilde’s story 'The Nightingale and the Rose'. This collection embodies the spirit of dedication and stands as an ode to modern femininity; a season in the mood of love, a love that you desire desperately until it drains your heart.

I decided to have a very elegant colour palette with subtle combination of creamy and pure white accompanied by midnight ink, electric royal blue, light choco and dark beige. Add to this the many shades of black as well as the delicate feather prints and then you have a palette that represents femininity in both its strength and finesse. You'll see an abundant usage of goat fur as well as my first attempt at utilising knit as a new texture. Meanwhile, cashmere, lambskin, silk satin/crepe, Japanese cotton, double-sided velvet and wool appear.

I've always had a very set mind about how to dress but since Lady Gaga wore a head-to-toe white look of mine to meet Obama at the White House, I became more liberal. I love to be surprised now

My signatures this season are jackets with unfolded fur collars and multi-layered coats; coats and cropped jackets suggesting a sculpted winter silhouette. To emphasise this modern woman I introduced long floor-sweeping skirts as well as lean evening dresses. I see my work always as a continued project that never ends in order to search and define my muse. It is neither the exact lineage nor a departure. My women are at once chic, delicate and sophisticated – while maintaining a strength.

I've always had a very set mind about how to dress but since Lady Gaga wore a head-to-toe white look of mine to meet Obama at the White House, I became more liberal. I love to be surprised now."