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Yves Saint Laurent Womenswear A/W12

Stefano Pilati's last YSL collection wove a dark, sensual mood around its cala lily emblem

Stefano Pilati's swansong for the house of Yves Saint Laurent took the calla lily as its emblem, an erotic and melancholic flower.

Today's show was both, but if there was melancholy from Pilati (there certainly was from the audience) it didn't show, as one of the designer's most confident and assured outings during his tenture prevailed.

Dresses were realised in emerald green chainmail and rubber while leather tunics in claret or black leather were belted severely. Shoulders were defined, furs resting glamourously atop, as boots arched the foot to a square point on a square mirrored heel. And those lilies shone on black tailoring, wrapped around wrists as dramatic, sculptural jewellery.

To the warmth of a gold backdrop, Pilati stepped out to take his bow to a standing ovation, ending on a high note.