Repetition, love and hate from the young Paris-based womenswear designer
As a young Paris designer, Simon Porte Jacquemus's inspired simplicity has already attracted fans and stockists including Dover Street Market and Opening Ceremony. Only 21-years-old, his first collection was inspired by teenage naiveté, a longing for 90s style and a want to create casual yet strong womenswear in memory of his mother. Another of Jacquemus' collections sees a video collaboration with the notorious exhibitionist artist and photographer Bertrand le Pluard featuring the veteran Parisian model, Caroline de Maigret.
I’ve always dressed up in uniforms, I always found it beautiful – like the uniforms of waitresses, nurses, or from the army. It's very fascinating. When I was young I remember I wanted to create collections about doctors and firefighters
The narrative continues through his clothes, where he explores the ideas of uniform, repetition and colour boundaries: "I imagined the story of a lonely woman, tired of men, who'd dedicated her life to dogs," explains Jacquemus of the campaign video before describing the collection of one colour, linen dresses. "I feel like I am taking more risks in doing a collection of repetitions. I like the idea of everything or nothing. The idea that you can love it so much or hate it."
WHAT’S…
...so special about uniforms, then?
I’ve always dressed up in uniforms, I always found it beautiful – like the uniforms of waitresses, nurses, or from the army. It's very fascinating. When I was young I remember I wanted to create collections about doctors and firefighters.
…the last film you saw?
“L'été meurtrier” by Jean Becker.
...the best piece of advice you've heard?
Believe.
...better, dusk or dawn?
Dusk.
…your favourite Parisian food spot?
At home, my lover's cooking.
…your favourite Parisian fashion spot?
Guerrisol.
...your first fashion inspiration?
My mother, definitely.
...the name of your hero?
My grandmother, Liline Jacquemus.
...so special about your hero?
She's never afraid. Be brave.
...your worst fashion secret?
I’ve worn the same underwear since I was 16-years-old.
...your favourite website?
La Cagole just for the voice.
...at the top of your shit list?
Me, when I can't find my favourite petit Nesquik au chocolat.
How does Paris inspire you?
I'm more inspired by people wherever they are. I love watching them as a camera with focus. I always start with a movie or an image.
How would you describe your fashion as music?
French pop singers from the 80s, from Jacno to Corinne Charbyz.
Your designs are refined yet deconstructed - are you inspired by simple beauty?
I really like the idea of simplicity. A total look with just one fabric excites me a lot. One day the director of Gago, one of my stockists in Aix en Provence told me while describing my clothes ,"C'est rien mais c'est tout." This means it's nothing but it's all and I think that's exactly what I am.
