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Richard Nicoll S/S12

PVC and neoprene materials in pastel pinks and powder blues dominated a 60s and 70s influenced collection that still managed to be modern in its cuts

It was a combination of the future and the past at Richard Nicoll's show for this season, bringing together elements from the 60s and 70s, updating them to create a super forward thinking, but as ever, completely classic collection. Opening with soft pastel colours, it was neoprene tops and dresses that were first seen on the runway. This futuristic feeling was softened as further looks came through, with Nicoll focusing on chiffon and baby doll dresses as the mainstay of the collection.

Where sheer was the most seen, a number of super cute pieces appeared in PVC, softened up with a colour palette of powder blues and pinks. Printed chiffon dresses were abstractions of florals, and hoops were inserted to give them a flow and movement all of their own. As he progressed it was on into lace, in keeping with the addition of the florals, adding embellishment to well cut cigarette pants and a conical bra top, reminiscent of a toned down version of Madonna's iconic look. Other stand-out elements were gold knits, shimmering tops, loose floor length chiffon pants a chest pleat detail thigh length evening dress. Overall the collection was super feminine and desirable, once again Richard managing to straddle that fine line of  cutting edge and timelessly wearable.

Dazed Digital: What was the starting point of the collection?
Richard Nicoll: The starting point was a film about the story of a psychotic husband whose wife is having an affair in the south of France. It's really psychedelic but the film was uncompleted because the director had a heart attack, so I think in a way it kind of inspired me to come up with something that was quite baby doll but in a dark architectural way.

DD: What drew you to the ultra femininity?
Richard Nicoll: It all just came from the film really but also perhaps the fact that I had been working so hard that I had had four days with no sleep. I think that had a really big influence on this collection, and just pushed me to really take my ideas further.

DD: There seemed to be a lot of very classic Richard Nicoll elements in this collection.
Richard Nicoll: I think that was really what it was for me, that I wanted to create what could be seen as a retrospective collection. I brought in things that I have done before and reduced them down to find a really pure form.

DD: Where did the hooped gowns come from?
Richard Nicoll: I did these kind of kite shapes years ago and wanted to revisit them as I felt that the first time round they weren’t quite believable. I wanted to do them in a way that wasn't clunky and still felt really wearable.