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Lanvin Menswear S/S12

Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz brought out a leather-centric show featuring earthy tones and strong structured shapes

The colour palette at Lanvin was, as usual, sombre and subtle i.e. perfect. No unnecessarily brash or loud colour injections - unless you count a red suit - interfered with the show. And since the colour scheme was all classic Lanvin (beige, green, black, burgundy), it was left to the fabrics to surprise us. Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz went all leather-tastic at their Sunday morning show. Signalling the beginning of the end to Paris Menswear Week, the duo sent jackets and tops in leather down the catwalk at Place de Bourse. They also played skilfully with volume contrasts as there were both voluminous shirts and extreme skin tight tops to choose between.

There also seemed to be a preference for collar-less shirts/jackets/coats which works nicely with the Lanvin aesthetic. Mentioned red suit, and a yellow outfit, brightened up proceedings slightly but a couple of black patent leather pieces took good care of ruining that. In a good way, of course; the earthly tones of this S/S12 collection made it a stellar Lanvin show. The structured fabrics used throughout and the last few printed trousers ensured that everyone left full on breakfast donuts and looking forward to next summer's holiday wardrobe.  

Dazed Digital: What was the general idea behind the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver:
 The collection is always about fabrics, silhouette and texture. Then we try and tell a story. But we never really go from 70s here to 80s next season. We believe more in an evolution, not a revolution. 

DD: So what's the Lanvin evolution all about?
Lucas Ossendrijver: We introduced fragility a years back when we started the menswear line, but this season it was time to go back to a more masculine look to give strength back to men.

DD: In what way?
Lucas Ossendrijver: The first look you saw was almost like airport security guards. But it's all about how we did that and the techniques. We used utilitarian coats but than we glued leather on top. We brought in a new way of tailoring where we actually raised the shoulder a bit.

DD: How would you sum the Lanvin look?
Lucas Ossendrijver: We propose options for different men, different bodies and different ages - it's all about individuality!

DD: Do you have a fave piece in the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: The opening leather pieces... they look really simple but actually they're not!