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Acne Resort 2012

Moving away from androgyny, the Swedish brand welcomes the volume of 40s and 50s silhouettes and a clash of high and low fabrics

Ushering in the label’s first NYC presentation was a sea of couture fabrics such as taffeta, organza and silks, that clashed and contrasted with the denim more familiar to the young downtown types. Volumous multi-layered silhouettes reminiscent of the 40s and 50s featured heavily, with billowing full skirts layered over slim cut trousers and cropped jackets. Mixing fabrics like denim and organza, the collection effortlessly combines the contemporary with the traditional in one harmonious look.

The deliberate move away from the brand’s distinctively androgynous aesthetic also marks a definite new direction for the brand. Each look was polished rather than undone, something that Creative Director Jonny Johansson consciously embraced by “creating a trapped volume” and showing “extremes which attract each other”. Without being to fussy or pretty, the brand convincingly maintains its essence of vitality and fun that its known for by choosing a bright and modern colour scheme. The perfect match of a beautiful burnt ochre, piercing turquoise and pale icy yellow worked well against the denim, black, grey and beige.