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Mugler Menswear S/S12

Nicola Formichetti and Romain Kremer kicked off Paris Menswear Week with 80s references through pastel colours and stone washed denim in a collection dominated by golden armour and modernised Mugler-tailoring

For their sophomore Mugler show, Creative Director Nicola Formichetti and menswear designer Romain Kremer put in the second gear. Moving on from last season's face (Rico), music (Gaga) and colour (black), the duo launched into a collection of futuristic and protective gear. But instead of a dark and gloomy vision of the future, Formichetti envisaged more colourful threads and golden accessories for next Spring Summer. Starting out with beige and nude tones, we saw tailoring deconstructed through zipped pockets, sharp shoulders and drawstring waists. This modern take on Mugler's formal history followed on from last season's outing, but was enhanced through cropped jackets, angular cuts and ribbed body-tight knits.  

There were a few black pieces, and even more grey ones (plastic shirts and tailoring) but it was the bright shades and shiny materials that defined this collection. Golden body armour jewellery dominated the first few looks, lurex leggings and body glitter shone even stronger against the last few white outfits. But Formichetti played the nude and white shades out against strong neon colours and 80s pastel shades for effect. That sentiment was enforced by a few stone washed denim looks. Formichetti and Kremer as such managed to keep Mugler's DNA, Kremer's signature futuristic aesthetic and Formichetti's undeniable gift for pushing things forward. 

Dazed Digital: What was the starting point of the collection?
Nicola Formichetti:
I made a digital mood board, almost in semi-porn kinda way. It was inspired by Italian films by the likes of Fellini, Pasolini and Caligula. 

DD: Many looks had a quite protective in way...
Nicola Formichetti:
Yeah, that was inspired by Sen Seia, the Japanese cartoon character. He came from Greek mythology and that's where I got the golden armour came from - but with added sportswear!

DD: There were a few strong references to the 80s...
Nicola Formichetti:
Yeah totally. I think the male should be heroic and mirror athletic goods and for me that sums it up!

DD: Any favourite pieces that sum up the collection?
Nicola Formichetti:
The gold medal with the Mugler logo - I think everyone should wear that one!