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Groundwave A/W11

Martial arts-inspired coats over padded waists and collarless shirts gave an asymmetric feel to the collection from Sun Ho Kim at Seoul Fashion Week

Proving to be one of the strongest brands at Seoul Fashion Week for a consecutive season, Sun Ho Kim and his Groundwave continued its minimal and modernistic take on menswear yesterday. Using grey, white and bits of black and blue, the collection - showed as part of Generation Next at Seoul's Kring venue - played with the idea of layered and asymmetric pieces. Kim used belted jackets, collarless shirts, padded waist coats and martial arts-inspired wool coats with angular collars as a modern take on a traditional Korean outfit. Cotton, wool and polyester dominated this focused and directional show.

Groundwave is one of few South Korean brands with a coherent aesthetic that has a thought-out design DNA and a recognisable USP, giving the brand a huge advantage in breaking out from the domestic market into a more international one. The sandals were not only practical but also aesthetically pleasing, many jackets came cut with longer front and a shorter back section. The colour palette might not have been the most cheerful and the harem trousers are not exactly wearable, but Sun Ho Kim was still an undeniable highlight in Seoul.

Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?
Sun Ho Kim:
Korean structure and architecture...

DD: Anything in particular?
Sun Ho Kim:
The Bulkuk-Sa temple monument outside Seoul doesn't make sense on its own but in its surroundings it is perfect...

DD: Do you have other sources of inspiration as well?
Sun Ho Kim:
Yes, the French painter and sculptor Pierre Soulages influenced the straight lines of the collection.

DD: How would you describe the collection?
Sun Ho Kim:
The asymmetry of the symmetric!

DD: Tell me about the fabrics...
Sun Ho Kim:
I mix Korean fabrics with foreign ones like herringbone.

DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
Sun Ho Kim:
The monk-inspired white coat that they wear in the temples.