Inside AFRODERM, the tattoo convention focused on Black skin

Following two successful editions in Paris, AFRODERM is heading to London this week. The first tattoo convention to focus solely on melanated skin, AFRODERM was founded in 2024 by tattoo artist Dimitri Andrew, after he noticed the poor quality of tattoo art on Black skin across Europe, including his own first-hand experience. Determined to change this, he created AFRODERM to advocate for tattoo culture within the Black community and to educate on sacred African tattoo traditions that have been erased through post-colonial modernisation.

Curated by London-based artist Itonisha Rowe, the convention takes place August 22–23 at Sang Bleu studio, just ahead of Notting Hill Carnival weekend – a deliberate choice. “It’s about taking advantage of the moment so we can be loud in our celebration of Blackness.” With a lineup of 15 tattoo artists, including Jade Clark (Manchester), Marcus Oliveira (Brazil), Emmanuel Item (Vienna) and Zipporah Hunt (South London), the event is expected to welcome over 500 guests from all backgrounds. Alongside tattooing, the convention will host an exhibition on the practice of scarification, originating in sub-Saharan Africa, with artefacts and tools on display, plus a pop-up shop selling work by the participating artists.

Tattoos on melanated skin often face complications during healing – from scarring and ink discolouration to allergic reactions – usually caused by artists without proper training. With AFRODERM, Andrew aims to set a new standard. While the convention focuses exclusively on melanated skin, the artists were selected for their proven ability to work on Black skin, regardless of whether they are of African descent. For curator Itonisha Rowe, the priority was clear: showcase the best of the best, while still centring Black artists.

Tattoo culture is deeply rooted in Black history, but in mainstream media Africa is often overlooked when tribal tattoos are discussed, its mythologies far less popularised than those of other cultures. Through AFRODERM, Andrew hopes to help close that gap. “If a Nigerian in Paris knows about the Asian Koi fish, then you can also learn about Mami Wata and Sango,” as he puts it. Maxime Plescia-Büchi, founder of Sang Bleu studio and industry legend (he’s inked the likes of Skepta and Virgil Abloh), agrees: 49 years after the world’s first tattoo convention, it’s time to expand cultural awareness and recognise the full diversity of tattoo traditions.

“The visual representation in the tattoo industry by Black artists is a crucial stake in truly showing what tattoo is, not just from the Western or Euro-centric perspective,” he says. “Events like this show the true depth and diversity of work that artists in this industry produce.” Plescia-Büchi sees AFRODERM as empowerment and says that it is vital to increase visibility for the myriad cultures that have used tattoos throughout history as a means of expression, ensuring that their knowledge and representation is guaranteed in the modern tattoo world. 

In the UK and beyond, tattooing can be an isolating space, and finding community as a minority group is even tougher. That’s why, while creativity and education are central to AFRODERM, building and sustaining community is just as vital. For participating artist Ayobami Samuel, known as Sammy, it’s about recognition: “We’re actually recognising each other. We’re making steps towards creating space to allow ourselves to shine without waiting for acknowledgements from the mainstream.”

With a background in art, Sammy began tattooing because he wanted to see Black art represented properly in the industry. Over his 13 years of experience, he’s encountered persistent misconceptions about tattooing melanated skin, from fellow artists and clients alike. Through projects like AFRODERM, he aims to educate on the nuances: from using different needle depths to the importance of intensive moisturising. Even now, he says, he’s still learning how to adapt to different skin types and conditions, such as eczema and diabetes, which require tailored approaches.

Another common misconception is that Black skin requires excessive stretching, which is something both Sammy and fellow tattoo artist Emmanuel Item dispute. Item explains that collagen in Black skin is denser and more tightly packed due to the natural abundance of melanin, which simply means the tattooing process requires more patience. For him, taking part in AFRODERM is a “full circle moment,” since London was the first place he introduced his tribal style. “When tattooing Black skin, one needs to go slow and let the skin open in time, without trying to force through it,” he says.

It’s this type of knowledge that Andrew is hoping his initiative will help spread. He believes that educating about the unique needs of Black skin through conventions and content creation will go a long way to correct the errors within the industry, where he often still encounters shock and resistance from people when they learn of his focus on melanated skin. Alongside AFRODERM, he currently teaches apprentices in his Parisian studio, focusing on expertise in dark skin tones while making plans to host visiting artists from Europe and America to showcase their techniques and learn from one another.

The London edition of AFRODERM is sponsored by Art Comes First and Stories and Ink Skincare. Tickets to the convention can be bought here.