Welcome to the era of regenerative beauty, where skin doesn’t just glow from the outside, it heals itself from within. Whether we’re using our own blood to spin back the clock or applying cutting-edge serums packed with bioengineered actives, the once-distant future of skincare is quickly becoming the present. One of the most buzzed-about innovations making waves in both dermatology clinics and luxury skincare labs is exosomes. 

Exosomes are tiny, microscopic messengers plucked from human (and sometimes plant) cells. They are being hailed as the next frontier in skin and hair rejuvenation. They’re already showing up in facials, scalp treatments and advanced post-laser protocols – often with claims of faster healing, deeper regeneration and skin that glows deeply. But what exactly are they, how do they work, and are they worth the hype?

WHAT ARE EXOSOMES?

“Exosomes are tiny extracellular vesicles ranging from 30 to 150 nanometers in diameter,” explains Dr Yannis Alexandrides, plastic surgeon and founder of 111 Skin. “Their primary function is to facilitate intracellular communication, meaning they play a key part in the pathways that signal inflammation, tissue repair, and immune responses.” At his clinic, exosomes are part of a suite of regenerative treatments designed to rejuvenate skin and accelerate healing after clinical procedures.

When extracted from an individual, exosomes come from bone marrow or placenta cells that are donated to companies, then grown and multiplied in the lab, and then purified to contain said exosomes. Unlike stem cell treatments or platelet-rich plasma (PRP), exosomes don’t require the injection of whole cells. “Exosomes are extremely effective thanks to their power to promote cell-to-cell conversation within the skin,” says Dr. Alexandrides. “Their small size allows them to penetrate deep into the skin and act as messengers, reducing inflammation or stimulating collagen production.”

The appeal is obvious: high performance, needleless if you prefer (exosomes can be injected into the area of the body that needs restoration), and – if the buzz is to be believed – skin that reprograms itself to act younger.

WHAT DOES THE SCIENCE SAY (SO FAR)? 

Exosomes aren’t just buzzy – they’re also controversial. “While early studies and anecdotal reports suggest some potential benefits, large-scale, peer-reviewed clinical trials are still lacking,” says regenerative expert Dr Vasiloudes of hair health brand Harklinikken. “That makes it difficult to assess long-term safety and effectiveness.”

He also notes that the source of exosomes matters – a lot. Some are plant-derived, others come from stem cells, and some (in experimental settings) have been linked to cancer cell lines. “Their contents vary widely, which complicates quality control and raises concerns about unintended effects,” he says. The US FDA has also stepped in with warnings about unregulated exosome products being used without proper approval, raising valid concerns around safety and oversight.

Charlene DeHaven, MD and Clinical Director of iS Clinical, agrees that the exosome conversation is a mix of legitimate science and marketing spin. “Use of a skincare product containing exosomes is no assurance of product quality or that the product will deliver the promised results,” she cautions. “As with any product, the user should be wary of advertising that seems too good to be true or is not backed by trustworthy documentation.”

ARE THERE REAL RESULTS?

Some small studies and early data suggest there’s promise when it comes to exosomes. “There has been strong data from in vitro and small clinical studies showing significant improvements in post-laser recovery, acne scars, and overall skin rejuvenation when exosomes are introduced,” says Eric Nietzel-Leone II, aesthetic nurse and founder of I Wanna Be Pretty. “One study found patients healed nearly 50 per cent faster after a CO2 laser when exosomes were applied post-procedure.”

At 111 Harley St., Dr Alexandrides’ office in London, anecdotally results are visible. “We launched exosome treatments around two years ago,” he says. “We use them on the face, neck and scalp. The exosomes we use have great antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, the skin is often calmer immediately after treatment than it is with some other protocols.”

Still, not everyone’s convinced. “I’ve never used them, as I don’t see them as safe for our clinics’ use at this time,” says Dr Vasiloudes. “I’d recommend patients wait until long-term, large-scale studies – especially around safety – are completed.” Although there is preliminary evidence that exosomes may be useful to deliver biologic messages in the form of DNA, mRNA and proteins, long-term statistically significant studies with large sample groups focusing on safety are lacking. 

Just like exosomes can deliver “good messages” within a biological system, they can deliver “bad messages” as well. Further studies focusing on safety are paramount. Exosomes have been implicated in autoimmunity and potentially in integrating harmful strands of mRNA or DNA into the recipient. This can potentially be mutagenic, if not carcinogenic or cancer-causing.

HOW TO ENSURE YOU’RE USING THE RIGHT EXOSOMES 

“Trustworthy brands will clearly disclose where their exosomes come from and how they’re tested,” says Nietzel-Leone. “Look for independent lab results or third-party verification – anything less is a red flag.”

Dr Alexandrides echoes that sentiment: “Patients should ask what kind of exosomes are being used, and where they’re derived from. With exosomes, quality over quantity is key.” He also stresses the importance of proper delivery. “You want to know how the exosomes are introduced into the skin and what technologies are used to enhance their effects.” He personally only uses plant-based exosomes, and says that storage plays a big role in efficacy. “Exosomes must be refrigerated correctly and mixed in front of the patient just before treatment begins to ensure potency.”

EXOSOMES: FUTURE OR FAD? 

So, are exosomes the future of regenerative beauty or just another overhyped trend? “I see exosomes being around for a long time,” says Dr Alexandrides. “Their results are truly outstanding.” Dr Harklinen, on the other hand, is more sceptical. “This is more of a trend. As people understand the science behind exosomes, growth factors, and other ingredients better, they’ll likely move toward higher-grade options, like stem cells.”

Dr DeHaven lands somewhere in between. “New advancements will always occur. I hope that exosomes will continue to be used for their benefits and not fade as a new buzzword comes to prominence.” In the meantime, she urges practitioners to responsibly use and explain this technology, rather than “focusing on emphasising the newest buzzword in our industry.”