‘I’ve been living my life as rebelliously as I can’: The Japanese hairstylist brings his creative vision to life through a riot of colour, shape and texture
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What is beauty, according to wigmaker and hairstylist Ryo Narushima? “The deepest inner part of a human being exploded to the surface,” he says. In that case, his work is beauty by definition: his creative vision and spirit brought to life in a riot of colour, shape and texture – never the same, but always held together with his signature inquisitiveness and crisp-as-hell delivery.
Growing up in Japan with severe health issues, it was a proximity to death that sparked Narushima’s imagination. “I wasn’t allowed to play outside at all… the only fun thing that I could do was to close my eyes and fantasise,” he says. “I became attracted to the surreal world because it was similar to the vision I was seeing at that time.” Looking at his portfolio today, you can see the richness of his mind’s eye: from slick, sculptural wigs to playful paintwork and complex, maximalist cuts. It’s an energetic experimentalism that has earned him gigs with industry heavyweights like Tim Walker, Juergen Teller and Katie Grand.
It wasn’t just his imagination that Narushima’s unconventional childhood ignited, but his rebelliousness and ambition, too. “In Japan, we have a proverb: ‘The nail that sticks out, gets hammered down.’ This means that it is difficult to deviate from the norm,” he says. “However, since I experienced the brink of death in my childhood, I can’t think of a life that only consists of following.” It’s this zest for life, plus a love for his work and his creativity, that underpins Ryo’s philosophy.
Can you tell us a bit about yourself and where you grew up?
Ryo Narushima: I was born and raised in Japan. I spent my childhood suffering from severe asthma. I was taken to the hospital by my dad in the middle of the night for treatment every night and was not allowed to play outside at all, so I spent my time watching other children playing outside from inside my house. The only fun thing that I could do was to close my eyes and fantasise. It was a way of escaping from the harsh reality. I became attracted to the surreal world because it was similar to the vision I was seeing at that time. Seeing death in front of me gave me a chance to think seriously about life, and I began to take an interest in what I could do with my life.
Why do you choose to become a hairstylist?
Ryo Narushima: I like to allow my imagination to inspire the things that I create, but ultimately I chose to be a hairdresser because it is a job where I can interact with people and feel their gratitude directly. This means that I get a lot of joy from what I create. Later, I wanted to become more experimental and creative, so I became a hairstylist in the fashion industry. I also make hair wig masks, which is the most effective way to express myself.
How did you get into it?
Ryo Narushima: After working as a hairdresser, I entered a school to become a session hairstylist. I had to practise intensely for two months to make a perfect ponytail, and we weren’t allowed to pass until we got rid of every gap on the surface of the ponytail. In addition, in Japan, there is a culture that uses wigs in its dress, such as those used by Geisha and Kabuki, and through such things, I have cemented my specialised skills in wigs. After I moved to London, I worked as an assistant on stages worldwide for some artists such as Guido Palau and Anthony Turner, expanding my range of artistic expression.
What are you trying to communicate through your work?
Ryo Narushima: In Japan, we have a proverb: “The nail that sticks out, gets hammered down.” This means that it is difficult to deviate from the norm. In education, if an answer that is even slightly different to what is expected is given, it will be an incorrect answer. In other words, rather than autonomy, we are expected to follow the rules. As a result, there is a collective pressure to say yes. However, since I experienced the brink of death in my childhood, I can’t think of a life that only consists of following – that’s why I’ve been living my life as rebelliously as I can.
In London, there is a feeling that young people take action themselves. I empathise with that way of thinking, and I am often influenced by UK music and street culture such as punk, goth, new romantic, and club kids. So my style is a fusion of Japanese culture and London culture, done experimentally. Through my expressions, I hope to convey to people who live with anxiety that they can enjoy their lives without regrets.
Who is your beauty icon?
Ryo Narushima: Björk, her creativity and sense of value are amazing. Also I am a big fan of Rei Kawakubo, so I love the moments when Björk wears Comme des Garçons looks.
What is your current obsession?
Ryo Narushima: Creating strange monster creatures from various materials bought at car boot sales. No one gets to see it. It is just in order to release an explosion from my mind.
Are you optimistic about the future?
Ryo Narushima: Yes. There are an infinite number of things I am interested in, and as long as I continue to challenge myself, I will be able to enjoy my life. However, I am worried about the future of Japan, including the declining population and the education system, so I would like to do what I can to help in the future.
As a hairstylist, the breadth of expression in business is limited. So, I would like to find a place where I can express myself more and expand the range of possibilities as a hairstylist in the fashion industry. And I want to pass it on to the next generation.
You encounter a hostile alien race and sound is their only form of communication. What song would you play to them to inspire them to spare you and the rest of the human race?
Ryo Narushima: Björk Utopia. They will be drawn in by her beauty and will not feel like attacking people.
Which fictional character do you most relate to?
Ryo Narushima: Hisashi Mitsui from the anime Slam Dunk. He has inspired me to overcome the past and make steady efforts every day.
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