Edinburgh Film Festival Opening Gala 2009

Now in full swing of it’s 10 day tenure in the ancient city, Dazed was excited to be invited along to the opening gala, featuring the premiere of Sam Mendes’ latest: ‘Away We Go’ and after party in the improbably grand Teviot Student Halls – 5 sticky floors of booze, cocktail burgers and drunk, pompous film critics with the odd live gig thrown in (people will apparently dance to anything)… stopping briefly to chat to a bemused Alan Cumming on the smoking terrace (there to promote his film in the festival, Boogie Woogie).

It’s always exciting to see the likes of Sean Connery, in the flesh, heading towards you on his way to the ‘Candy Shack’ (or was it the men’s?) in the charmless foyer of a Cineworld multiplex, but even this wasn’t enough lustre to make up for the lack of most things beguiling in Mendes’ indie-goes-mainstream - ‘Away We Go’. A fairly bland tale about a dysfunctional couple who can’t decide where to raise their imminent child, the pair set off on a road trip to visit their friends in various parts of the States, hoping that one of their destinations will become home. Replete with all the dead-eyed tropes of an indie style that we should now be cutely reflecting on circa 1990-something, unfortunately the score was equally unimaginative – earnest guitar strumming and contemplative ooo-ing from what Mendes seemed to think is the latest kid on the block (think tepid approximations of Nick Drake, John Martyn and lashings of David Gray – Mmm - directors should get out more). Maggie Gyllenhaal is brilliant, however, with her hilarious portrayal of a crazy, spiritual earth mother with an acue fear of prams. In all, best summed by an old film hack sitting nearby, who must have noticed my slack-faced expression, who chirped ‘Don’t worry, festivals always open with a REAL stinker’. I’ve yet to find out the reasons for this, but looking at the eclectic programme of features, docs, shorts and masterclasses, the rest of it looks truly inspiring. For anyone thinking of going up this year, or next, to pan for some cultural nuggets of ‘enlightenment’, you will not be disappointed… Especially if you’re thinking of staying at Edinburgh’s newest hotel, like we were… Oh, didn’t I mention that we were put up in the Hotel Missoni?

With one in Edinburgh and one planned to open soon in Kuwait, Missoni’s fashion empire has just branched out into the designer boutique hotel business. Boutique hotels also smack of something a little ‘done’ (perhaps also in the 90’s – great era) but this place is different. The only modern building in the heart of Edinburgh, it’s a wonder how this modern monolith got planning permission. Perhaps not totally inspiring from the outside, inside is a whole different kettle of minimalism offset with signature colour, pattern and designer luxury – you don’t need to have a heated bathroom floor in June or be swaddled in a £250 Missoni dressing gown whilst you drain the complimentary mini-bar watching daytime TV on a Bang and Olufsen to enjoy your stay, but it is nice. Speaking of which, after a breathless initial scan of the room to ascertain what I might be able to get away with ‘popping in my suitcase’, I came across the politely provided price list – turns out the soap wouldn’t be missed, but anything else would at least double the bill for your entire stay (apparently the price list was an after thought, following the first week of opening, when the hotel lost much of their room contents to guests with hungry suitcases and an eye for good design). No sign, however, of the beautiful, ambassador and heir to the Italian Fashion House, Margherita Missoni, alas. Ah, love you, Margherita…

It’s important to note, The Edinburgh Film Festival is only one of 12 cultural festivals that Edinburgh hosts every year. For a small but perfectly formed city, that’s a lot of festivals and they are all worth checking out. Well, maybe you could live without the Military Tattoo… Dazed highly recommends that you put these in your year planner:

Edinburgh International Film Festival
17 - 28 June 2009 July

Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival
31 July – 9 August 2009
 
Edinburgh Art Festival
5 August – 5 September 2009   
 
Edinburgh Festival Fringe*
7 – 31 August 2009  
 
Edinburgh International Festival
14 August – 6 September 2009
 
Edinburgh International Book Festival
15 – 31 August 2009   
 
Edinburgh Mela Festival
7 - 9 August 2009
 
Scottish International Storytelling Festival
23 October – 1 November 2009 December
 
Edinburgh's Hogmanay
29 December 2009 - 1 January 2009
 
For more information, go to: www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk
www.visitscotland.com/perfectedinburgh
Plan ahead for cheap rail tickets and accommodation – particularly for the Fringe.