These photos document the current state of British goth culture

It isn’t just a phase. When photographer Xanthe Hutchinson and stylist Helen McGuckin set out to survey goth communities up and down England this summer, the movement was long cemented as a mainstay of British counterculture. Over the last few decades, in fact, the definition of goth has expanded and diversified, coming to mean a lot of different things to a lot of people. In 2024, says McGuckin, “Goth is an attitude, demeanour, frame of mind, as well as a style.”

“It’s all about power, ultimately,” adds Hutchinson. “We’ve gone through so many years of being beaten down, feeling defeated and powerless in the face of corruption and social division. Brexit, Grenfell, the cost of living crisis.” Today, goth and alternative culture is a way of reclaiming some of that power we’ve lost, she suggests. “It’s an act of rebellion, a show of discontent and unwillingness to conform.”

To document the nation’s goth and alt scene, the pair cast models off the street, as well as sliding into goths’ DMs on Instagram, and reaching out to certain inspirational figures on their early moodboards. In the name of transparency, they threw everyone into a big, open group chat. “We wanted to ensure everyone had open lines of communication, and could talk among themselves too,” Hutchinson explains. As a result, it felt less like a traditional casting call, and more like a democratic process – a community coming together.

In the resulting images – captured across three shoots in the North, West Midlands, and South of England – the diversity definitely shines through. Interpretations on goth and alt culture range from traditional to cutting-edge high fashion, from fetishwear to new romantic eclecticism. Many members of the cast raided their own wardrobes for the shoot, assembling looks alongside McGuckin, and Hutchinson’s photographs showcase them in a crisp documentary style, against industrial backdrops or the stark white side of a van.

Among the cast itself, the influence of the internet and social media on the evolution of their subculture – for better and for worse – is a recurring theme. On the one hand, the internet often focuses on aesthetics over authentic values, as niche cultures are eaten up by corporations and spat out for profit. “Goth culture has evolved from an underground subculture [into] a public spectacle,” says Zovi, one of the people photographed for the project. This has a real-life impact: “Underground spaces aren’t filled with beautiful creatures and living art, etiquette at shows isn’t as communal and safe any more.” Bella, another member of the shoot’s cast, echoes this sentiment, “Microtrends are bleeding onto alternative clubbing scenes,” she says, “and dressing up doesn’t seem to mean what it used to.”

On the other hand, social media has allowed outsiders to find each other and feel more accepted than they otherwise might, especially growing up in more rural or conservative areas. “I think it’s great to see more people becoming comfortable with themselves,” says Venom, adding that goth gatekeepers are missing the point. “For me, if you feel goth, you are goth. People just need to let people live their fantasies, and make [them] reality.” Jolie agrees, adding: “Goth culture has become so much more eclectic and nuanced... We’re letting go of the rules, and goth can be whatever we want it to be.”

Read more about Xanthe Hutchinson and Helen McGuckin’s portraits of English goth and alt culture in our interview below.

What initially drew you to goth and alt subculture as the subject of this shoot?

Helen McGuckin: Since being a young, emotional teenager, I’ve been drawn to the gothic culture, lifestyle, music and community. Now, as a ‘grown up’, emotional stylist I always incorporate a little darkness and humour into my work. [Goth is] a subculture with such a strong visual connection to the eras I love, the style and self-expression that can traditionally be seen as negative or dark. There’s something special about people who embrace this, and [they] will most likely be the most funny, interesting and caring people you’ll meet.

Xanthe Hutchinson: I have a real fascination with subcultures and what they communicate via dress. I’ve always gravitated towards the unconventional and, for me, this mode of representation highlights the tension between what we want for ourselves and what society wants for us.

We very much wanted the subjects to be themselves but kind of a magnified version – Xanthe Hutchinson

Did you notice any geographical divides between shoots? Did the meaning of ‘goth’ change at all, from north to south?

Helen McGuckin: Maybe subconsciously I projected that change, as we chose more traditional goth and DIY personalities in the north, and the more noticeably ‘fashion’ styles in the south... From talking with the cast, the meaning of ‘goth’ changed for each individual. Some were fashion-focused, and some based their lifestyle on developing the genre to suit them. It was a very interesting mix.

Xanthe Hutchinson: It became less about this supposed divide and much more about a super cool community. When we were shooting, it was amazing to see that a few of the people already knew of each other, or had even met in person beforehand.

The project showcases super diverse takes on goth and alt culture. How do you think the meanings of these labels have expanded over time?

Xanthe Hutchinson: There’s always going to be a massive spectrum of alternative dress, and I love that. I love that it continues to evolve and diversify – it’s cool and fascinating. It’s beautiful to think that everyone has a place and a unique community to belong to, and fashion allows [them] to connect in such a tangible and immediate way.

Helen, what was it like to work with people’s personal wardrobes?

Helen McGuckin: It’s way more interesting working this way, and letting personality lead the looks. I asked them to bring in their favourite pieces, listened to them, then showed them my options and made sure they were comfortable in the developed looks. I wanted them to feel as comfortable as possible, while dramatising the range of styles within this subculture.

Xanthe Hutchinson: We very much wanted the subjects to be themselves but kind of a magnified version.

Xanthe, how did you approach the photography and framing of the shoot?

Xanthe Hutchinson: With any shoot, you’re always trying to capture those unguarded moments, an insight or an expression of your subject, like a veil dropping away. In this instance, it was an intense but fun process. Everyone was so open and engaged.

Shooting both on location and in a ‘studio’ format was a way to add and subtract environmental context. Some locations feel very northern, but then the ones where we have used a white background countermands this. I was thinking of Avedon’s portraits of the Midwest and how this really simple format – travelling around, just shooting against a white truck – made the images feel timeless, but conversely of their time.

What do you think it means to be a goth in 2024? Why does it remain such a powerful mode of self-expression?

Helen McGuckin: It means being true to yourself and showing an interest in countercultures, which is what it probably always has been. You appreciate others’ uniqueness and are interested in [their] personalities. It’s not the traditional ‘you’re not goth enough’ mentality, like there has been more of in the past. Who’s to say what’s inside... even if you’re not wearing goth in a way someone else expects you to?

Who’s to say what’s inside... even if you’re not wearing goth in a way someone else expects you to? – Helen McGuckin

Xanthe Hutchinson: Whenever people denigrate the importance of fashion it’s so clearly dismissive of the power dress has to communicate, unify and, unfortunately, to divide. I think with this project you see how it brings people together, but in a way that celebrates our differences.

There’s still some significant pushback against alternative subcultures in the mainstream, or on the street. How do you see this changing (or not changing) in the future?

Helen McGuckin: Unfortunately it probably won’t change fast enough. I see communities becoming bigger and stronger though, due to social media. Nights, dinners, gigs, brands, and charities like the Sophie Lancaster Foundation are safe spaces to help people who use goth and alt as a form of expression.

Xanthe Hutchinson: Honestly, I think pushback comes from a place of insecurity and self-doubt. What’s more empowering than someone who can know and express themselves so clearly? Perhaps that’s why people feel so threatened? Because they really don’t have their shit together as much as they‘d like to admit?

I think we will see change when we learn to be comfortable with who we are instead of who we think people want us to be. People like to project their own shortcomings on the alt community. If you feel disempowered but have been taught to blame others instead of the politicians actually creating the problems, it’s almost default to feel resentment. You just have to hope that people learn to chill the fuck out, really.

Visit the gallery above for a closer look at Real Life Horror, photographed by Xanthe Hutchinson and styled by Helen McGuckin.