There were two noticeable factors that made Trussardi stand out this season. First, of course, there was the spectacular centennial anniversary of the Italian brand that started out as an accessory brand in 1911. Secondly, Milan Vukmirovic, its creative director since 2008, had moved the celebrations down from Milan to Pitti Uomo in Florence, making Trussardi the main event on Wednesday evening. The show gave him an opportunity to show what the label does best; classic wardrobe pieces, reinterpreted to fit each season.
This time around that meant a full-on leather collection. Coats, trousers, boots, shirts, jackets and T-shirts all came in black, white and khaki brown shades. Mainly in monochrome, Vukmirovic used shearling, nappa leather and suede to communicate his luxurious vision for A/W11. Even though white V-neck T-shirts in leather kept everyone positively gob smacked, it was the sturdy outerwear - trenches, coats, biker coats and M65 jackets with angular pockets - that impressed the most. But the undeniable star of the show was the Greyhound dog that accompanied the final model, signifying the new canine decorated logo of the design house.
Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for the anniversary collection?
Milan Vukmirovic: I didn't want it to be purely a homage show, I wanted it to be really modern and young. The real statement was that there was not one real piece of fabric in the show, only leather.
DD: What kind of leathers did you use?
Milan Vukmirovic: Every kind possible; laser cut, printed, treated, double coated!
DD: The white T-shirts and shirts, were they really made out of leather!?
Milan Vukmirovic: Yeah, it was almost like the leather used for gloves, it was that thin...
DD: Leather seems to work well with Trussardi...
Milan Vukmirovic: Yeah, we're originally a bag and shoe company, plus leather makes sense for a luxury company since it takes time and research to produce and it's all hand-made.
DD: You also like focusing on the staple pieces in every man's wardrobe, right?
Milan Vukmirovic: Yes, I like perfecting them but also to create desire, for people to feel 'that's what I want to wear'!
DD: What's your favourite piece in the collection?
Milan Vukmirovic: The shearling pieces but also the white leather T-shirts and the sleeve less biker jackets...