Giles Womenswear S/S11

After a couple of seasons showing in Paris (after winning the ANDAM award) where he always seemed slightly out of place in an already busy schedule, Giles Deacon made a very welcome return to London with a truly fun and stand-out collection. While he cited Anne Boleyn and trannie DJ, Jon Pleased Wimmin as starting points for the collection, trying to pin a specific reference for any Giles collection seems besides the point. He lets a myriad of influences into his work before spinning them out again in random, unexpected tangents. What else to make of a show that featured sweaters with his trademark Pacman motif making a fun new take on the traditional Fairisle pattern, womanly fitted corset tops (on the pneumatic likes of Kelly Brook), and enormous ball gowns (sometimes pumped up with what looked like crinoline underneath) made up of blown up Elastoplast-and-ribbon print, all topped with Stephen Jones’ fluffy pompom “Inca” hats. This being Giles of course, he counterbalanced the lightheartedness and wit with his customary couture finish and his execution was flawless. His long term collaborator and stylist, Katie Grand commandeered a stellar line-up of supers for his grand homecoming, from a punked up Aggyness Deyn, Stella Tennant and Coca Rocha but none got a roar of applause as loud as the original supermodel, septuagenarian Veruschka done up in orchid print dress and feathered pink Mohawk who closed the show. Though he now splits his time between Paris (where he’s due to show Ungaro) and London, it feels mighty good to have Giles back.