Opening with the inimitable James Jeanette stalking the runway while spraying the crowd with a rich smelling perfume was an inspired move from Richard Nicoll, a man that knows how to successfully woo a crowd with theatrics, while still producing beautiful, powerful and commercially accessible pieces. Nicoll's SS 2011 collection was a good and solid move from the designer. He managed to provide something that happily ticks a series of important boxes, wearability and buyability being two very high up on the list in todays climate, while still being inventive and original. Seemingly inspired in part by the 1930s, perhaps embodied in more of a nod to a tougher femininity, Nicoll then added a very simple combination of natural and nudes with crisp white and black to pleats and short dresses, dropping in PVC cropped and ankle length skirts, leather trousers and sheer blouses to give the collection some punch. A spread of evening elegance and glamour came from the use of beading on the occasional piece, continuing the idea of being incredibly desirable, giving a nod to that perfect piece of clothing that is classic and modern, while still being young. Overall chic, sexy, classic with a strong and tough edge, Nicoll has once again created something that puts him head and shoulders above his contemporaries; covetable clothes that do not get carried away with experimentation, but continue to remember the roots of the designers creativity.
Dazed Digital: What was the idea behind the perfume at the beginning of the show?
Richard Nicoll: I just wanted to add a bit of opulence, but also a bit of sleaze, and thought that was a good way of doing it.
DD: What was the collections inspiration?
Richard Nicoll: David Bowie, the Thin White Duke, had a big inspiration on the pieces.
DD: There was something very minimal about the show as well...
Richard Nicoll: I think that is really what the Bowie reference meant to me, especially him in that era, which translated into minimal and glamour really.
DD: Do you have a particular favourite in this collection?
Richard Nicoll: It's always so hard to say but I was pleased with the pleated dresses.
DD: And where did the inspiration for them come from?
Richard Nicoll: That was from 1930s and 40s sports and tennis wear, which was followed through by the bras under the sheer blouses.