Masashi Nozaki (London, UK)
Published 15 months ago
Hailing from a small town in Japan, 23 year-old Nozaki has come a long way with his new mens collection...
- Text by Dazed Digital
Originally from Japan but now living in London, LCF graduate Masashi Nozaki is ready to launch his menswear vision on the world. His design direction might be subtle in its colour palette and his influences derives from the darkest of darkest periods in he history of mankind, but there's an undoubted celebration of life in the collection. A homage to everything beautiful. And what better direction for a fashion designer can there possibly?
How old are you and where are you based?
I'm 23, living in East London
Where are you from?
I'm from small town in north island of Japan.
Why did you become interested in fashion?
My sister has influenced me a lot. When she entered high school, she started shopping for clothes because her school didn't have uniform - most of junior high and high schools have uniforms where I'm from. Then I started going shopping for clothes with her, I was in primary school. I used to follow what she did at the time.
Tell us about your current collection?
I was inspired by history of the Second World War. I was researching why the war was happened. The cause was the Great Depression in the US, then it hit Germany hardly because American loans were stopped to help rebuilding the German economy from WW1, then the horrific things had begun. When people are very close to a crisis, they tend to panic and try to blame someone and something, they just cannot realise what has gone wrong while it was happening. They find out later as it becomes escalated or after the period has finished. Wrong things can become right sometimes, and when it occupied the majority, right things would look wrong.
So I tried to apply this thought into garments. For example, a coat with four pockets, the pockets look like normal patch pockets, but they are actually connected to the body, not separate pieces. I call it a "buried pocket' as the pocket looks like it's buried into the body. Also opening of pockets on jackets, they are just an open rectangular shape. There is no other piece to hide the opening. People might just try to change the material, colour, or size, but no one has removed it before. Raised up shoulder, connected lapel and collar to the body on jackets as well. They look normal at a glance, but when you see carefully, they have details which are abnormal in general.
Most of the garments are tailored. I'm always interested in tailoring. I believe that tailoring is the most basic yet most difficult clothes to make. Fabrics I have used are basic as well, plain and made of natural material. It is nice to use hi-tech or designed fabrics, but I tried not to use outstanding fabrics this time to make details more noticable. I think when you would like to create something original and new, you should look into and consider the base. If you develop something developed already, it just looks a copy to me.
Where do you seek your inspiration?
Everything can be inspiration to me, from rubbish on the road to a beautiful art piece, but I'm quite influenced by natural things as I'm from the countryside. Also I'm fascinated by military garments.
Who is your favourite designer and why?
Raf Simons, because he is just great as everyone knows. Veronique Branquinho, It's a shame that she closed her brand. Her clothes are simple but have very beautiful silhouettes. I liked her choices of fabrics and details as well, very subtle and sophisticated. Carolyn Massey, because she is just so lovely, and her collections too.
What makes you happy?
When I found something nice and cheap, when I see cars I like, when I talk to someone about cars, and sweets from my hometown.
Where can we buy your designs?
Nowhere at the moment, but you can always contact me if you are interested in my collection.
