Following on from the AW19 menswear shows, NYFW’s womenswear segment is now well underway. With Raf Simons having left Calvin Klein, the brand is taking a season out, giving new, exciting names like No Sesso – who made its fashion week debut on Monday – a chance to prove their worth. Also making his NYFW debut was Tomo Koizumi, who owes his first on-schedule show to stylist Katie Grand.

After discovering Koizumi on Instagram, working in Tokyo as a costume designer, Grand reached out and flew him over to present a collection of archive pieces and new looks in the basement of Marc Jacobs’ Madison Ave store. “Marc is a true legend and I wouldn’t have expected any of this a month ago,” Koizumi tells us. “This has been a dream and an honour.”

Despite bringing on a stellar team of names – Guido Palau on hair, Pat McGrath on make-up, and Anita Bitton on casting – the designer’s OTT tulle looks weren’t eclipsed. You’ll likely have already seen Koizumi’s giant tulle dresses all over Instagram worn by the likes of Bella Hadid, Rowan Blanchard, Karen Elson, and Gwendoline Christie, who closed the show in a look that took two weeks to create.

Citing his inspiration as a melting pot of Japanese flower dolls, ancient royal costumes, Rothko and O'Keeffe paintings, and even Sailor Moon, the main theme the designer wanted to convey was a sense of happiness. “I’m always trying to make people happy or entertain them with my designs,” he explains. “They’re just for joy, for me and for everyone else.”

After such a well-received debut, Koizumi is overwhelmed with the response. “I’ve been so encouraged by everything and everyone I have met, I feel like I can really push my designs and show them to even more of the world.” What can we expect next? “Something different and fun, with lots of colours,” he concludes. Watch this space.  

@tomokoizumi