Photography Lucie RoxFashion / ShowRick Owens: ‘We have to reject the oppressive’As Donald Trump’s inauguration draws ever nearer, the designer delivers a collection about ‘getting ready for turbulence’ShareLink copied ✔️January 20, 2017FashionShowText Emma Hope Allwood Rick Owens AW17 So far this menswear season, we’ve seen designers react to the way the world feels perched on a precipice. In London, J.W.Anderson swathed models in familiar crochet blankets and Craig Green discussed the fear of the unknown, while in Milan Donatella Versace championed unity and Jeremy Scott presented an army-inspired collection which he said was about fighting for everything you believe in. Since summer, when Brexit happened smack bang in the middle of the shows, we’ve been thrust into a world which feels at its most divided in recent memory, and where today, a self-proclaimed pussy grabber is about to become the leader of free world. Yesterday in Paris (which, of course, has its own rising right wing) Rick Owens responded to all of this in the way only he can. Turning away from the doom which dominated the last collection (think tar pits and environmental collapse) he adopted a more Dionysian approach, dubbing this season’s collection Glitter as a tribute to bombastic 70s transgression as a reaction against oppressive times. “I thought, ‘God, I’m getting really earnest,’” he explained backstage. “Instead of whining so much, it has to be about rejecting oppressive, turbulent times and defying it.” Models were dressed to weather the coming storm, with puffa jackets wrapped around bodies and opera cape volumes. “When I look at the collection, it’s very much about bundling up, it’s about wrapping up. It’s like getting ready for turbulence,” Owens declared. But there was a darker side to the defiance. “The clothes were basically about fear, that’s what those are,” he said. “They’re about pretending and presenting yourselves as powerfully as we really want to be.” The music echoed the idea of coming danger, playing out the moment Delilah falls in love with Samson, though we know that she destroys him in the end. For Owens, the takeaway was this: we have to dance while we can, because who knows when a trigger-happy President (or a small dictatorship with a big chip on its shoulder) could cause the volcano we're standing on to erupt. Backstage at Rick Owens AW17Photography Lucie RoxEscape the algorithm! Get The DropEmail address SIGN UP Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday. Privacy policy Thank you. You have been subscribed Privacy policy Expand your creative community and connect with 15,000 creatives from around the world.TrendingThese photos capture moments of beauty and surprise in Mexico CityCo-edited by Nan Goldin, Órale: Love and Death in Mexico City is the only photo book by the late Michel Hurst. Here, his partner Robert Swope discusses Hurst’s work and their decades-long love affairArt & PhotographyFashionStreet style: Parisians strip off at a sweltering Fête de la Musique PumaLife & CultureMeet freestyle footballer Janella HernandezArt & PhotographyThese photos portray life on a tropical island as a beautiful prisonBeautyIn pictures: Lesbians take London for the Dyke March 2026BeautyBella Hadid: ‘Home is within our own hearts’Beauty10 of the hottest Instagram accounts fusing art, sex and eroticaFilm & TV9 great films you can watch on YouTube for freeLife & CultureThe World Cup is putting America on trialEscape the algorithm! Get The DropEmail address SIGN UP Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday. Privacy policy Thank you. You have been subscribed Privacy policy