Fendi AW15

Initial reaction:

As everyone around Fendi relished in the saccharine surface of Fraggle Rock fun furs, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi showed a more streamlined vision of the brand – informed by geometric precision and a savoir faire (or the Italian equivalent) that knows its natural materials. Wool, shearling and leathers cut into straight lines hung on the body in panels and angular tabards, contrasted by rounded padded puffa coats and strapless dresses that created curvature. Giant buttons made out of plexiglass enhanced the hard lines. As Koreless’ track “Sun” built up to a crescendo, you could see that the show wasn’t so much about a tricked out theme, but instead a rigorous exercise faultlessly executed.

How it was worn:

Elasticated headbands were worn over softly mussed up chignons, while an angular tropical paradise flower was worn in every bag to replace last season’s softer orchids, as well as a new mini Super Karlito bag charm. The shoes were furry ankle boots with a melting ice plexiglass wedge.

Dada Moment:

The early 20th century Dada artist, sculptor and dancer Sophie Taeuber-Arp was the primary inspiration for a collection that played with geometric and strait-laced construction. Her abstract Dada Heads were blown up and lined along the set and Fendi had also gotten permission from Taeuber-Arp’s estate to incorporate her work into the geometric prints and also into the bag designs. The artist’s famous 1926 self-portrait of herself in a curved bowler hat, partially obscured by a Dada Head, mirrored the contrasts of the collection as curved lines met perpendicular symmetry.

The soundtrack to Fendi AW15: