Initial reaction:

Marc Jacobs explores the darker side of New York City’s elite.

A vision of Vreeland:

In an ode to fashion “empress” Vreeland, Marc Jacobs mixed lofty extravagance with a seductive gothic glamour. Opening with industry favourite Erin O’Connor, the collection offered a twisted take on the classics – leather opera gloves, snake-print coats and slick patent boots – recalling Vreeland’s enduring quote that “unshined shoes are the end of civilisation”.

Dedicated to the dame:

With a backdrop created by Stefan Beckman – inspired by Jeremiah Goodman's painting of Vreeland's sitting room – the legendary former Vogue editor’s influence could be felt throughout. Accompanied by Clint Mansell's tumultuous soundtrack taken from the equally compelling, unsettling cult film Requiem for a Dream directed by Darren Aronofsky, the show continued to accelerate into a sublime spectacle.

The soundtrack to Marc Jacobs AW15: