Kenzo AW15

Initial reaction:

These were inhabitants of a free-love, believe-all commune somewhere, anywhere. Members of this trippy tribe protect themselves in khaki green, reflective fabrics and reshaped bombers. “UFO’s are Coming Back”, reads one bomber cape hybrid. They communicate in a coded and loaded language of Wingdings through subliminal knitwear and send symbols out there into the world and beyond, to see if there might be a reply back. “It was really about language, community – Kenzo has always been known for creating these tribes through the history,” said Humberto Leon after the show. “We wanted to form this community that could self sustain and this idea of accepting others and accepting that something could be out there. So we had all these symbols running through the collection – where you can find water, where you can find shelter, where you can find protection.” The collection asks, hopefully, do you believe?

The setting:

It’s not a Kenzo show without a zany location, and the newly opened Philharmonie de Paris – designed by Jean Nouvel – was the perfect choice of location as it looms into view, like the hostile crafts of Independence Day.

Shiny happy people:

The word “Love” was reversed to form patterns. “Love Others Paris” read a patch on a sweatshirt. And the word “Respect” was even on the packets of tea that were being served before the show. They feel pertinent right now, but without being too political of a statement, they also chimed right in with a 90s-tinged activist’s optimism, augmented by acid tie dye, paint-dabbed shearling and tactile fleecy camouflage.