Central Saint Martins BA Fashion 2014

Velveteen street urchin, new reptilian textiles and op-movie sidekicks dripping in jewels: our top ten CSM graduates

Fashion Show
RICHARD MALONE 1
Richard Malone Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Forty graduates from the world-renowned Central Saint Martins BA Fashion course presented their final collections last night in a show dedicated to the memory of Professor Louise Wilson OBE. Here, Dazed fashion editor Elizabeth Fraser-Bell selects her top ten favourites – including L'Oréal Professionnel Designer of the Year winner Gracie Wales-Bonner.

GRACIE WALES-BONNER - L'Oréal Professionnel Designer of the Year Winner

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Gracie Wales-Bonner Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

Iced sidekicks from an 80s cop movie.

How they wore it:

High-waisted dark denim, leather macs, Chanel-esque boucle suiting – plus tonnes of jewel-dripping attitude.

QUOI ALEXANDER

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Quoi Alexander Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

A bulbous reptilian skin of woven neon ribbons, coiled tape and net.

Audio-visual:

Musical clackers fixed to the heel of rope-woven platform shoes set a disconcerting ‘clack clack clack’ beat.

CHARLOTTE CHAN

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Charlotte Chan Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

Velveteen street urchins in frilled aprons, pink ruffle waistcoats and a patchwork of blue.

Atmosphere:

The sombre models’ walk through the shadowy CSM venue – as rain clattered on the roof and dripped onto the stands below – sent us straight back to a Dickensian London.

HYON PARK

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Hyon Park Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

The first look? A sweat-glistened runner sprinting the catwalk in silence.

To the gym:

Towelling drapes, high-tech finishes, and super low-waist, trousers ‘slipping’ from the hips to reveal neoprene underwear.

PAULINE EDVALL

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Pauline Edvall Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

What mum wanted you to wear – lumpy knits in murky colours, too-big flared trousers and cute bucket hats. 

Prints please:

Eyes, limbs and teeth, distorted into prints that looked like organisms or cells under a microscope.

RICHARD MALONE

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Richard Malone Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

Squished, scrunched and slipping off shoulders – topped with a towering Pharrell hat.

The uniform:

Tank tops over shirts, felt grey skirts, patch pocket pinafores, and Bardot-style off-shoulder satin prom gowns.

MICHAEL GRIFFIN

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Michael Griffin Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

The city banker’s uniform got hijacked.

How they wore it:

Graffiti scribbles over slick shirts with outsized collars, comically big ties and houndstooth overcoats left to drag on the tarmac ground.

ASHLEY KANG

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Ashley Kang Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

Granny took a trip.

Kitsch remasterd:

Fraying carpet bag florals scattered over lurex glitter skirts, embroidery patterns blown up over yellowing wool cardigans, and giant metallic lacing through laser cut suede.

RAHEMUR KAHMAN

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Rahemur Rahman Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

Gossamer suiting for fantasy Far East business trips. 

Prints please:

Neat florals in shocking pink, teal and earthy browns – the rainbow colours of spices you find in markets in India.

MASCHA ROTERMUND

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Mascha Rotermund Backstage shot by Jamie Stoker

Initial reaction:

Into the digital garden.

Surface details:

Perspex flowers scattered over loose knits, clattering giant floral beads hanging by threads, and open weave panels that peeped at the skin beneath.

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