The young designer transports us away from today’s fast-fashion into a silent shadow world
A serene atmosphere surrounds the semi-veiled girl at the centre of Phoebe English’s AW13 short film – but it’s interrupted by flashes of darkness that cast an ominous spell on the designer’s structured silhouettes.
This fifth collaboration of the designer with director Marie Kristiansen, accompanied by a music score courtesy of London based Golden Hum, gradually show us glimpses of the collection. The visuals at times single out her signature monochrome pieces built out of straightforward lines and thought-out textures with a white frame, as if English wants us to look at them separate from its wearer who becomes objectified in the process.
Phoebe explains, “Whilst obviously displayed to us, the model is simultaneously removed or hidden by the masking of her eyes”. The result is a dream-like sequence. Before our eyes, she merges with the themes that were on English’s mind: “x-ray and spectre like transparencies, slide show layering and the voyeuristic plinth exhibit of the model protagonist.”
Director: Marie Kristiansen
Model: Johanna at M+P
Music composed by Golden Hum
With thanks to Tom, Jarred, Lotte, Tamsin, Joshua and Elliott.
Special thanks to the Tea Room Studio.