The designer takes us on a desert mission with military precision
For our ongoing Mercedes-Benz Fashion Broadcasting series, we look at the exceptional work of three up-and-coming LC:M designers. Known for his experimentation with fabrics and forward-thinking outerwear, Raeburn continued his signature of sourcing and creating military derived looks, which fuse urban protection with a highly stylised edge.
Where last season his reoccurring map print motif covered jackets which stood out against a largely plain khaki, navy, grey and beige palette - for SS14 desert imagery provided print inspiration, alongside a contrasting colour mix of cobalt blues, sky blues, mints and dusky muted pink - a colour which referenced army Land Rovers which were painted pink as effective desert camoflage.
This collection was inspired by the extreme environment and the men of WW2‘s ‘Long Range Desert Group’, delivering a mix of functional lightweight and water resistant fabrics, some of which utilised Raeburn’s mash-up of old and new textiles.Innovative hybrid pieces included a classic bomber, suit jacket and shorts made with a ‘Cool Wool’ mesh over new stretch Schoeller fabric; military parachutes re-appropriated with mesh as a reversible jacket and parashirt, and a draw-string field jacket made with original 1950s rubberised cotton.
Raeburn also added a heavywight of accessories thanks to his collaboration with Porter bags, which saw his bold designs across a range of rucksacks, some supersized to fit a small army into. This show was a clever mix of the contemporary and the traditional, functionally fashioned into a well-dressed urban hiker.
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Director: Sam Rowland, Producer: Tom Knight, Music courtesy of Willam Arcane - The Theory