Prada Womenswear SS13

Miuccia Prada's legacy of renewal hit again. Turning left from winter's macro embellished, twisted masculinity and jacquards, and left again from the retro sportswear of the Cruise collection (and the Royal Tenenbaum theories journalists applied to it), out came a collection on a squared infinity loop catwalk of austere lines in duchesse satin patched with singular flower prints, like a Warhol silkscreen with its layers stripped away. Or a cartoonish photocopy – a child's version of what a bloom looks like.

The colour palette was reduced and so were the shoes, with leather tabi socks fastened to the feet. To the other extreme was a huge Geisha platform bound to the foot, as Japanese influence escalated with wrapping and folding through the final looks.

Whilst the dramatic synth soundtrack with pained, empassioned vocals boomed throughout the via Fogazzaro space, for those watching nothing could've been further from the truth. But Mrs Prada thrives on such a contrasting dynamic and this collection explored further the complexity of womanhood.

Photography Piotr Niepsuj