Yohji Yamamoto Menswear S/S12

After his show in Paris, we speak to the man behind the new collection of composed contrasts in thick linens, jersey shirts and wide pants

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You might wonder what Bollywood and Yohji Yamamoto have in common – indeed, the former’s music kicked off and ended the latter’s catwalk. A taste for humour, drama and men in wide pants perhaps? The show began by offering classic contrasts – ultra baggy trousers with loose white jersey shirts, mimicking and simultaneously appropriating a Western suit; this was soon followed by mismatched patterns, stripy pants worn with jackets composed of tiny heart patterns, a subtle game of patchwork, and kilt-like trousers – in fabrics ranging from to sporty jersey to raw cotton and thick linen.

The accessories included early 20th century policeman hats worn backwards like baseball caps, and a recurring use of knotted cotton belt. But the most notable aspect of the show was perhaps its casting: tall, short, chubby, young, not so young – and much, much facial hair. Dazed Digital chatted to Yohji Yamamoto after the show about Asia and the modern man.

Dazed Digital: Your show uses a lot of Bollywood music, is that an influence in your collection?
Yohji Yamamoto: Well, it is actually Indonesian music. I wanted to give a folkIoric feeling. Also, I was strongly influenced by Asian cultures, ranging from the South East, the East, and Japan.

DD: How does this translate onto clothes?
Yohji Yamamoto: I just mixed so many cultures in this collection so you can say it’s a new folkloric taste.

DD: And who is the Yohji man today?
Yohji Yamamoto: He is someone who lives in the city, and on the street; sometimes he creates a movie, and sometimes he writes. He is a free man.

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