Anthony Vaccarello A/W 10-11

It may be down to Anna Wintour's 'small' comment about Paris not supporting its young designers but looking at the official schedule for Paris Fashion Week this season, there are a few fresh and new additions. With an unpublished off-schedule, showing on-schedule in Paris is something of a god send and Anthony Vaccarello, a Brussels-born, Paris-based designer started the proceedings yesterday with a small and intimate presentation of his A/W 10-11 collection at the Palais Royal.

"It feels like there is a shift in the Paris fashion scene, and that things are changing," muses Vaccarello as he received a sizeable crowd for his first on-schedule presentation. eight strong silhouettes were presented, that were cut to precision with art-deco inspired lines and played with opacity and the idea of an urban lingerie. From form fitting crop tops to slightly loose dresses that draped at the back, strict lines cut into the garments, reining the various textures and embroidery in. "I was inspired by the idea of a woman carrying her femininity with armour. It was also about art deco meets the metropolis," Vaccarello explains. Lou Doillon also lent a helping hand by modelling the lookbook after becoming enamoured with Vaccarello's work.