"All men live enveloped in whale-lines", the quote from Moby Dick's Herman Melville was the starting point for Jen Kao's protective wardrobe. The combination of fur, leather and heavy duty jewellery (courtesy of Eddie Borgo) have become predictable components of the street-inspired 'glunge' collections of recent seasons. However with the intricate cable knits, the panelling and mesh inserts injected into long jersey dresses and a rib-cage motif worked into the rabbit fur (we predict a Saga fur-fest this season), Kao pulls her collection to a new level, putting her own spin on ideas of body cocoons and self-preservation.

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