After
last season’s mix of Russian techno and denim, the autumn winter collection
from Rick Owens was a bit of a surprise, albeit a pleasant one. For his Friday
lunchtime show just south
of the Seine, the American designer
tried out his tailoring skills. And even though he claims this was just a fad,
it was an impressive suit effort from Owens.
His
androgynous models wore formal coats, some in slight silver or golden shades, and often over
a turtleneck jumper. Other models appeared to be wearing a male version of halter neck tops, and others preserved Owens’
mojo by showing a bare and sexy back.
Just
because denim was out this season didn’t mean leather followed suit. We saw jackets
and coats in leather - which is Rick
Owens’ trademark material – and often they came out in brown, black or beige
colours. Layering and Owens’ characteristic play with the length of garments
also persisted, ditto his love for of fur. But even though we were treated to a
surprisingly mature collection, there were
clear signs of the old forward pushing
designer we have come to love; duvet jackets and platform boots in snakeskin
made everyone leave in an even better mood.
DD:
What was your source of inspiration this time around?
Rick Owens: This season was about opulence for
me. I’ve focused on austerity for the past men’s season,
which I’ll probably go back to soon…
DD:
It was rather a tailored collection for you, wasn’t it?
Rick
Owens: Yes, last season was such and indulgence in denim, and this one was more
of a library.
DD:
Library?
Rick
Owens: Tweeds and cigars. It had a country
manor feeling to it.
DD:
Do you feel it was a mature collection because of all the tailoring?
Rick
Owens: It’s a mature option, not a mature direction. I will always have my
leather! And also it’s a great challenge – you don’t normally think of Rick Owens when you see tailoring. A like a
challenge to react to, it’s a good base for a collection.
DD:
There were a few quite sexy pieces though – like the bare back tops…
Rick
Owens: Yeah, well you know, tailoring can get boring. You gotta put a bit of sex into it!
DD:
Any favourite pieces from the show?
Rick
Owens: I’m going to be wearing the black tailored coat made out of silk and
wool all winter long!
