Dazed Digital | Fashion East Menswear Installations A/W 09
DazedDigital.com
Film by Pierre Debusschere Photography by Cameron Smith Photography by Mari Sarai Text by Susie Bubble   |   Published 27 February 2009



The last day of London Fashion Week was entirely dedicated to giving a shoutout to the up and coming menswear talent of London. Guests at the MAN show only had to cross the road over to 5 Cromwell Place, the stunning Old Embassy Building to see Fashion East’s specially curated menswear installations. The featured designers; Katie Eary, Jaiden RVA James, Sibling and Martine Rose, were selected by the MAN panel and were given free rein to do as they wish with their room in the house. Dazed Digital was there to document this unique event.



Seeing a room of models dressed in embellished military garb, sitting around a dining table laden with cakes, only fully makes sense when you understand the story behind Katie Eary’s graduate collection at the RCA. Inspired by George Orwell’s Animal Farm, she delves into the ‘Politics of Pigs’ with her installation at 5 Cromwell Place.

So what's the story behind the installation?
The setting is supposed to be after the pigs have taken over the farmhouse (in Animal Farm) So it's quite macabre and worn down but also trying to keep it quite sophisticated. They want to have their cake and eat it. At the same time they are pigs living in their own shit so I tried to keep it vile as well.

They're like the most refined pigs in the world.
It's giving animals a free way to live like humans. They think they're above it. They become just like humans but more like Stalin or Hitler, the worse type of humans! It's like putting a silk hat on a pig. They're really grandiose and glamourous in the way they are dressed.

How have you reacted to your rise since your graduate collection?
I knew this is what I wanted to do and I've been thinking of doing a new collection since I graduated. Already I'm thinking of what I'll be doing next, you just can't help it. It's a natural thing! 

Will you be trying out for sponsorship from MAN?
Yes, that's my main aim. I'm not ready to change or dumb it down yet. I'm just scratching the surface of what I can do. (My pieces) are not something you usually see and that's what I love about it and I'm not going to commercialise it just yet. Right now, I'm really going for it because I have nothing to lose.

Do you think men are more restricted in what they wear?
That's because there's nothing available. I'm just pushing it. It's got to have some knock down effect eventually. If you think back to the 1600s', men were way more glamourous than women will ever be and so it's happened before, there's nothing stopping it from happening again - maybe not in my lifetime!

You need to have the Macromedia Flash plugin installed to be able to play this video.


Film by Pierre Debusschere
Photography by Cameron Smith and Mari Sarai

Click on the next pages to discover the other designers in the house.

Related Articles

  • me. (27/02/2009 13:06:49)

    How about just developing something guys want to wear Katie, instead of wasting everyone's money & time on this pretentious 1st year student crap? Jaiden & James, I don't consider shoving guys into flower print skirts pushing the boundaries of London menswear. We're in a deeper hole than we like to think with LFW...this has been a truly abysmal menswear showing by all accounts.

  • scott (27/02/2009 18:05:50)

    i for one,really appreciate that these new designers are trying to challenge the menswear standard and proposing more choice for guys. not all men want to wear banal items...we don't want to wear just the staple male wardrobe that consists of a blazer,hoodie,jeans and trainers et al. we should have more option. we have imaginations too! perhaps if more were to come along the standards would shift and perhaps guys would be more free and willing to experiment more.

  • JC (04/03/2009 12:51:12)

    I think the man-day was a great start for these young labels. Yes, some pieces we saw won't be seen down every highstreet right this second but they showed strong direction and it will be very interesting come next season when they will hopefully make larger collections. What we have to remember is that although we all want to make a living these collections are not meant for sales. They are just getting their message out there right now. But it's something very promising to build on.

  • me. (04/03/2009 19:05:02)

    The strongest message that a designer can broadcast, is how the clothes appeal on a shop floor & on the backs of the people buying into their philosophy. Not some pretentious video with little or no direction...I honestly cannot see where or how any of these designers go forward or build upon a giant union jack, infested peacock. There is no doubt that london is a hub of creativity, however without transformation to a strong emphasis on sales, LFW will continue to deteriorate. I'm all for advocating a variance in menswear that doesn't centralise around 'staple pieces', however these designers MUST use what men feel confident in as a fulcrum, to then exploring other avenues. Although, i reiterate... a flower print skirt for guys does nothing to help anyone.

  • hi (08/05/2009 15:04:26)

    Hello 'me' Prey tell... when is your fabulous commercial collection hitting us all square in the face/shops? This illusive collection people will invest their 'philosophy' in that will take off right under everyones noses and save the face of London fashion week? hmmm...

  • Paddy (30/07/2009 20:22:21)

    It's a bit C&A Clock House c 1995, no? Yes, I bought the blouse. And it didn't look good.