With last season's Moncler Gamma Rouge collection, Giambattista Valli already showed that he intended to erase the activewear status associated with Moncler. The Gamma Rouge range in itself is more decorative outerwear than practical ski jackets. For S/S 09, the erasing process continues and the presentation was held at the Romanian Embassy in Paris where you were led into a room where swimming jellyfish were visually projected onto the ornate walls and raised on a stage were Valli's puffy creations that also resembled those creatures, looking like they could be filled with water and air. A set of boudoir powdery colours paint the cropped jackets, capes and mid length dresses, all with pillowy puffy sleeves and shoulders. In the darkness of the Romanian Embassy, all the shapes glow with bright light but up close, the detailing can be seen with metallic threads shining through, clusters of pearly beads, pleated organza and embossed jacquard. Wading through the presentation of one rounded cocoon after another, the subtleties of craftsmanship become evenmore apparent. Activewear connontations erasure aside, it's the balance of ideas that really impressed as Valli calls the collection a "futuristic Trianon" and the shapes portray both historic references and futuristic inklings.