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Mugler Menswear A/W11

Creative Director Nicola Formichetti and menswear designer Romain Kremer last night launched the reinvented Mugler brand through latex pieces, tailoring without lapels and silk veils

The Mugler dream team of creative director Nicola Formichetti and avant-garde menswear designer Romain Kremer launched the reinvented version of the classic French brand on Wednesday evening, just before the proper Paris fashion madness kicks off today. Saying that though, the pair managed to pull off a pretty full-on collection that shook the fashion foundations of an otherwise calm in-between day. Body tight, except for a few wide trousers, and mostly in black, Formichetti and Kremer sent out latex and silver plated models wearing suit jackets and coats without lapels, zipped pockets, neoprene turtlenecks and puffa padded trousers.

Orange and red featured as contrast colours and the semi-futuristic Kremer aesthetic was counter balanced by glamorous bits of pearl necklaces. Denim and leather patchwork jeans added to a slightly darker and moody touch which was confirmed by some sort of male cyber bride look when models started coming out in in flowing silk veils, hiding the otherwise tattooed or latex-painted faces. 

Dazed Digital: Talk me through the inspiration for the show... 
Nicola Formichetti: I went through the archives and took all the things I liked and did a styling session with stuff from 1992, 1987 etc...

DD: So what did you pick from these years?
Nicola Formichetti:
I saw them in a very abstract way, and made it into rubbers and pearls...

DD: There was a clear dark and moody angle to the clothes though...
Nicola Formichetti:
A little bit yes, because it was to do with death, re-birth, anatomy and the evolution of clothes.

DD: You mention rubber, there was quite a lot of synthetic materials in there...
Nicola Formichetti:
Ah yeah totally, it is so Mugler to use non-conventional fabrics. He was using it back then and it still feels very fresh for me. There's always a twist towards streetwear and the undergorund scene.

DD: What about the jackets, many of them had no lapels!
Nicola Formichetti:
Yeah that was a classic Mugler suit that we stripped down and made even more simple and fitted. I'm not trying to reinvent anything, just simplifying it. 

DD: What were those veils made out of?
Nicola Formichetti:
It was a super fine silk mixed with synthetic from Italy. I actually saw it yesterday or two days ago, and we were like 'Oh my god, let's just use it'... it's just a beautiful fabric!

DD: Do you have a favourite piece?
Nicola Formichetti:
I liked them all, but for me it was more about the people, like Riko with the tattoos. He gave himself the skull tattoo as a birthday present when he was 20, he's great...

See all the exclusive coverage from Menswear AW11>>