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Ann Demeulemeester Womenswear S/S11

Monochrome layers and graphic abstraction took over in a reined in collection from the Belgian designer

Ann Demeulemeester does not faff about with too many tricks in her collections, primarily because she'll always have the safety net of a hardcore following come back season after season for more. The subtleties of her work and the changes she instills are never 100% refreshed but then again, why ruin the language that she has built up so tenaciously and confidently over the years. From last season's dramatic poeticism, Demeulemeester looked to the future with what she calls her own 'graphic abstraction' taking centre stage on the on endless variations of strapped in bibbed cropped jackets and spliced tops. A pristine and pure white crept in to of course heavily contrast with her favoured black. The patterns which felt like freeform expressions were stiched in, printed as well as used to partition and cut up the lean silhouettes. The assymetricality also played out in skirts that would drag the floor on one side and go thigh short on the other. At one point, chainmail masks that seemed to match the chalky fencing white in the collection also came in as accessories. We spoke to Demeulemeester on the wee tweaks that go on in her enduring aesthetic as well as this season's graphic abstraction.

Dazed Digital: What were you exploring this season?

Ann Demeulemeester: This time, it's about Graphic Abstraction - these are the most important two words - if you have them, you will have it.

DD: Can you tell us a little bit about this graphic abstraction?
Ann Demeulemeester:
The palette is very simple - there's a lot of white as well as black too. The graphic abstraction comes from giant prints that are cut-up in an abstract way. We reprint the patterns over the prints and we don't really look at how it comes out so each piece is unique in a way. There are sculptured protection pieces that also shape the silhouette.  I never really have a general theme in my collections though.

DD: How do you always move your collections forward every season whilst never losing what is essentially your own aesthetic?
Ann Demeulemeester:
I'm always honest with myself. I move on as a designer as a creative person but I never lose my soul. I just push my boundaries - I follow it like everybody I guess!