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Stine Goya

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS '11

The Danish catwalk season was dominated by a playful Peter Jensen and promising talents, such as Vilsbøl de Arce and Spon Diogo

Copenhagen Fashion Week was kick started by the upcoming brand Spon Diogo, created by the Latin American designer Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo and Danish Mia Lisa Spon, whose backgrounds in tailoring and industrial design complimented their recognisable cuts, structure and always minimalistic approach to a commercial avant-gardism. Quite the opposite route was taken by the quadruple design team at Moonspoon Saloon: photographer Noam Griegst, stylist Melanie Buckhave, designer Sara Sachs and well-known Israeli artist Tal R continued their explosive use of dramatic effects such as shoes made from branches of pinewood and electrifying hair made the audience feel like they attended an underworld funeral.
 
Soulland, created by Silas Adler, is another Danish brand currently working hard on establishing itself. Together with its ‘big brother’ brand Wood Wood, Soulland is a product of Copenhagen’s skate environment and the show mixed teenage riot, 90's tackiness and models wet from a thunderstorm. Peter Jensen might be based in London’s Dalston but he is Denmark's biggest international designer having showed in New York, Paris and London, and boasting stockists like Dover Street Market. His status was confirmed by the attendance of H.R.H Crown Princess Mary, and Jensen didn’t disappoint, giving us his usual mix of quirkiness, humour and child-like colour combinations, while details of Danish Christmas traditions echoed in his design.
 
Vilsbøl de Arce is one of the most promising stars in Danish design. This season, Pia de Arce and Prisca Vilsbøl played with origami and other Japanese techniques, while their razor sharp designs impressed. Their show was rather different and more commercial but beautifully composed of light linen, leather and silk. Stine Goya’s characteristic prints, which have made her a fashion staple piece in Denmark, were also present in her SS ’11 collection. As always the show featured pastels and corals, but what impressed the most was Goya’s stunning jewellery collaboration with the London-based accessory designer Sophie Bille Brahe. A fitting end to Copenhagen Fashion Week.