Since his first Couture show in Paris in 2003, the originally Bierut-based label from Elie Saab has always presented an air of understated elegance and poise. Silky hair and silk gowns made for an obvious match at the classicly modern A/W show where drooped V-neck dresses in mauves and maroons glittered with crystal detalling. Pinned at the waist or discreetly knotted, most gowns were floor-length in warm autumnal colours like scarlet red or warm golds.