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Giuliano Fujiwara Menswear S/S11

Masataka Matsumura went for stylish black trench coats and cropped leather tops in burnt orange for his Milan SS '11 show

The main focus of Masataka Matsumura’s summer collection was the tailored jacket, but instead of a Savile Row-esque study of the garment we saw it modernised and deconstructed. Some jackets had longer and shorter parts, others were partly cut up to show the layering. Often what we saw through those holes was a multi coloured abstract print, which brought a bit of colour to a collection full of black and burnt orange. Knitted leggings and cropped leather tops, also ideal for Matsumura’s layering, formed another central part of the collection.

Dazed Digital: What was the red thread going through the collection?
Masataka Matsumura: Motion and protection. They are opposites because motion is about movement and for me, protections is about being still and stiff. I wanted to mix those two opposites in to one collection.

DD: Sometimes the tailoring felt quite deconstructed
Masataka Matsumura: Yeah, it’s like a geometric formula, and a quite complicated way of designing.

DD: You’ve mixed ‘east with west’ – in what way?
Masataka Matsumura: For example, I’m using burnt orange, which is a very Japanese colour, but I’m using traditional Italian fabrics.

DD: There’s an emphasis on jackets, is that your signature piece?
Masataka Matsumura: Well, yeah maybe this time around, I worked hard on getting the shape and silhouette I wanted.

DD: What’s your favourite piece in the show?
Masataka Matsumura: I like the first black trench coat in the show.