Though the January shows will always play little brother to February’s womenswear schedule, this AW26 season proved menswear still has its bite. Just look at Jonathan Anderson’s sophomore Dior show, where Paul Poiret references were married with the style of New Jersey musician Mk.gee; or Willy Chavarria’s explosive “living film”, where Julia Fox and Romeo Beckham ruled the runway; or maybe even Rick Owens, or Dries Van Noten, or Louis Vuitton (the list goes on). While the curtain may have been closed on menswear for the season, you can revisit all of those blockbuster shows here, and scroll down for everything else you might’ve missed.

SAUL NASH

When you entered Saul Nash’s latest Milan show, masked figures stood statue-like on the runway, shrouded by sheer white sheets. When everyone had taken their seats, classical music suddenly blared from the speakers, and the motionless figures sprang into action, flinging off the sheets and then whipping them through the air in their interpretative dance. It made sense, then, that the collection that followed was called Masquerade.

Last summer’s Notting Hill Carnival led Nash to explore the idea of a Venetian masquerade, which in turn forced him to think about how the masquerade’s ideas of concealment and expression could be applied to growing up in London. “I wanted to create a collection that empowers the wearer. These are clothes that can act as a form of masquerade in your own life, a medium to embody who you want to be,” said Nash in the show notes. As well as providing this London uniform, the designer also continued his collaboration with Lululemon, which included crossbody bags, barrel trousers and waterproof jackets.

CELINE

“We took the frame of menswear, and what Celine stands for, and then talked a lot about the energy of today, the here and now, the way people live and want to look,” said creative director Michael Rider in this season’s accompanying note. “The way we want to feel in clothes. Character over costume. Everything you could need.”

This season, Rider focused on bringing the Celine man simple clothes that last, ones that he can “appropriate” into his wardrobes and life. Key looks included a buttery brown leather trench coat (which seemed to have a built-in croc leather notebook) and a collarless denim jacket styled over a white turtleneck. Elsewhere, Rider went full surfer dude with a cute shell necklace and a tusk pendant, while footwear went from blood red derbies to tawny beige slip-ons.

ACNE STUDIOS

Did you know that in 1996, when Acne Studios was founded, “Acne” stood for “Associated Computer Nerd Enterprises”? Did you know that the brand started with 100 pairs of jeans? Or that it’s turning 30 this year? The man behind it all, Swedish creative director Jonny Johansson, is all too aware of the brand’s age, taking us back in time for his AW26 menswear collection. Presented via lookbook this season, the collection was partially based on Johansson’s love of The Crown (Princess Diana’s portrayal in particular), as well as old menswear magazines. Oversized aviators were paired with 70s-inspired shearling coats, upturned collars, and long trenches. Retro leather flares were styled with Acne’s beloved green bomber, Diana would’ve approved the turtleneck-blazer combo and Harrington jackets.

IM MEN

In 2024, Homme Plissé showed its final collection before relaunching as IM Men last year – the final label created by Japanese designer Issey Miyake before his death in 2022. Last week, the brand showed its third collection, held inside the eery cloisters of Collège des Bernardins. Titled “Formless Form”, the collection stayed true to what Miyake did best: loose, comfortable silhouettes that manage to retain elegance. Cowl necks, capes and billowing trousers all made an appearance, as did hoods that doubled as scarves and long, swooshing coats. The collection was separated into block colours – first came the moody black looks, followed by bright white, earthy brown, followed by shocks of Yves Klein blue, fuchsia and yellow. The outerwear was the star of the show, especially when styled with leather gloves. 

Y-3

Fashion, and the rest of the world, has officially fallen for Formula One. Not only is the F1 movie (produced by Lewis Hamilton himself) nominated for Best Picture at the Oscars, but Louis Vuitton is an official F1 partner, and now Y-3 has got involved. As revealed at the brand’s AW26 menswear show, the brand’s latest collaboration is with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One team. Adidas’ immediately recognisable three white stripes were blurred to take on the form of the racing track, while caps were decorated with the Mercedes logo. Elsewhere, leather bomber jackets were spraypainted and graffiti featured throughout, plus we saw the return of Y-3 denim. Yohji Yamamoto himself watched the show from the front row, looking on with pride, and sat next to Kano, ASAP Nast, Gabbriette and Wretch32. 

CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY

For a brand founded over a decade ago now, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy feels very 2026. Ahead of the curve since day one, the Glaswegian designer has remained loyal to his pointed ear beanies, brooches, neckties, layered accessories and keyrings, and his AW26 menswear collection was no exception. There’s a playful chaos to Jeffrey’s work that fits in perfectly with today’s trends – Gen Z have officially killed the “clean girl” and now want their clothes ripped, loose and layered. Jeffrey showcased his latest collection via a presentation held in the basement of Dover Street Market Paris’ headquarters, taking inspiration from those around him as well as his own lore. Reflecting on his days at Central Saint Martins – when he hosted his Loverboy club night in east London – the designer delivered a collection that could be as easily seen in the streets of Dalston as in the Marais. 

HERMÈS

After an impressive 37 years, fashion’s longest-serving creative director took her final bow at Hermès this weekend. In October last year, it was announced that Véronique Nichanian would be leaving her post and is due to be replaced by Grace Wales Bonner, who will show her first collection in a year’s time. To commemorate Nichanian’s last show, screens were erected around the room playing a montage of the designer taking her final bows from the past four decades. The collection itself paid homage to the image she has created at Hermès: simple but sleek, outerwear finished to perfection, buttery leathers and a foundation of elegance. Nichanian didn’t go out with a bang – that wouldn’t be Hermès – but ended her tenure with the same subtle sophistication that she’s carried for the past 37 years. 

LANVIN

Lanvin is the oldest French fashion house still in operation. Founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, the brand began as a millinery, before branching into womenswear around 1910. It wasn’t until 16 years later, in 1926, that Lanvin launched a menswear line. Now, exactly 100 years on, current creative director Peter Copping just showed his first collection consisting of only menswear (his previous shows included both men’s and womenswear). Chartreuse was a recurring colour throughout Copping’s AW26 menswear offering, as were maroon, coffee and grey. Leopard print made a surprising appearance, as did slipper-like mules, shawls and stripes. It was a collection of parts, which, when separated, might sound unappealing, yet somehow, just work when brought together for the Lanvin man.