Dsquared2 has always understood how to make Milan Fashion Week feel alive. Dean and Dan Caten know how to balance sex appeal with spectacle, and more importantly, they know how to stay in step with what people are actually paying attention to. On Friday night, at Rubattino56 on the eastern edge of Milan, the brand returned with a co-ed AW26 collection during Men’s Fashion Week. With snow covering the runway and an original, AI-composed soundtrack playing, Dsquared2 immediately signalled its intent: a return to its origins, demonstrating that after its 30th anniversary last year, the brand is still leading the way for innovative fun in fashion.

HUDSON WILLIAMS TURNED UP THE HEAT

Unless you’ve been completely disconnected from online discourse, you’ll know that Heated Rivalry has been the talk of the town this past month. The breakout sports drama follows two rival ice hockey players whose on-ice competition spills into a complicated (and heated! off-ice relationship. Last night, lead actor Hudson Williams traded the ice hockey rink for a runway slope, opening the show in a denim jacket and a shoe that landed somewhere between a classic dress silhouette and a snow boot.

THE SHOW WAS A RETURN TO THE SLOPES

Dsquared2 has long drawn from the Catens’ Canadian background, and skiing has been a recurring reference throughout the brand’s history. For AW26, that influence took over the entire set. The runway was blanketed in snow, and models appeared through fog and light like figures emerging at the top of a mountain.

THE COLLECTION WAS APRES SKI BUT MAKE IT SEXY…

The menswear centred on exaggerated winter gear and sports references filtered through Dsquared2’s bold styling language. Oversized puffers and massive parkas were layered over suits, racing-inspired knits, and ski underpinnings. Hockey jerseys, knitted après-ski sets, padded vests, and biker jackets moved easily between sport and street.

Denim appeared frosted and embellished, often lined with shearling and worn open against bare skin. Leather flared trousers and square-toed ring boots with alpine detailing anchored the looks. There was a sense of characters rather than outfits, each one styled to suggest a different approach to life on the mountain.

…WITH A FUTURISTIC TOUCH

The womenswear mirrored that energy with a sharper, more futuristic edge. Outerwear became sculptural, shaped into corseted mini dresses built from stacked puffers. Cropped hockey jackets were paired with piped denim and nylon trousers, while bustiers, leggings, and wedge ski boots pushed the collection toward a sleek, cyber-leaning direction. High-shine latex tailoring and glossy nylon bombers with furry collars added a note of icy glamour.

THERE WAS AN EYEWEAR COLLABORATION WITH CARRERA

Accessories played a focused role this season, particularly with the introduction of Dsquared2’s collaboration with Carrera. The #D2speed eyewear drew inspiration from vintage seventies ski goggles and featured a magnetic system that allows the temples to be swapped for a branded elastic strap. Available in black, white, and red, the design reflected the collection’s blend of sport heritage and technical innovation.

Head to the gallery above to check out the collection.