We caught up with the self-appointed mayor of Bushwick as they style-hunted and party-hopped across the SS26 season
Welcome to the Fashion Week Photo Diary, a series where local photographers document the faces, places and parties surrounding their city’s catwalk shows.
“I took shrooms at a very terrible runway show that I will not name, and decided to Citi Bike home,” says Maxwell Vice, recounting a long and winding story that ultimately led to voguing on the dancefloor at Studio54. The photographer has been working in and documenting New York nightlife since their teens, and the bi-annual New York Fashion Week is the theatrical and often ostentatious apex of that work. From capturing models in clandestine moments, shooting street style outside a Fakemink gig, to sneaking their way into Studio54, Vice takes NYFW by the balls every season, and SS26 was one of the wildest yet.
Scroll through the galleries above and below for Vice’s fashion week photo diary, and read on for their thoughts on the SS26 season.
Heya! First of all, did you have a game plan going into this season?
Maxwell Vice: Every season I draw a calendar on my whiteboard and hit up my secret inner circle of photographers and exchange tea on who and where shows will be. I block out time slots for shows I have to attend, either due to family and friends involved or, you know, I’m getting paid. No shade. I skip after parties because my day job is really a nightlife job where I manage a 24-hour rave each week, so I like to hit any and all shows that are runnable or city bike-accessible. Must-sees are anything Luar, Telfar or Willy Chavarria. Those are my mentors, and it’s always amazing to see the energy during their presentations.
Can you tell me the story of sneaking into Studio 54? What did you have to do to get in?
Maxwell Vice: I took shrooms at a very terrible runway show that I will not name, and decided to Citi Bike home. During the ride, I passed by Studio54 and saw about 400 people outside, so I immediately called an Uber Black around the corner, because I knew if I was going to get in, I’d have to walk up like a celebrity. I stepped outside of the car to walk up to a door guy – a very cis 21-year-old man in a Valentino tux – and told them my name. He told me they’re not letting me in because I’m not on the list. It felt kind of nice to get rejected at 54; as the only 24-hour door manager in America, I deserve a chop at 54.
As this is happening, Kevin Aviance is walking outside of Studio 54 – where I then ask for her portrait – as well as Ugly World Wide and Robot MoonJuice. I happen to know all three from working the clubs as a teenager, which is exactly what Robot MoonJuice says to the door twink – but he crosses his arms and keeps shaking his head. As this interaction occurred, Ugly World Wide grabbed my hand and pulled me behind her into the doors of 54 with a kiss, as Kevin and Robot distracted the PR team and told them that I am indeed a nightlife icon!
What was it like once you got in?
Maxwell Vice: I knew I had to photograph as much as I could. [The model] Amara Gisele and a thin boy in angel wings grabbed my hands and said, ‘your two angels are going to take you backstage’. They dragged me through the carpeted club floor up the stairs, where I saw a wall full of autographs from Diana Ross, Cher, Liza Minnelli – all the divas were there. I stopped Amara before the green room to pretend I was going back to dance, but really, I signed my name next to Liza. Then the shrooms took over, and I vogued my way back downstairs before Violet Chachki tripped over my body. Amazing night, ten out of ten, would do again.
What were your other street style highlights of the season?
Maxwell Vice: The street style at the Fakemink show. I live down the block from where he was performing, so I shot it in my pyjamas. I loved the friend in the kind of burgundy sweater, and the couple in trip pants. Reminded me of my homies growing up.
And your runway show highlight?
Maxwell Vice: Easily Agbobly. So emotional started his show with soccer players and had some of most vibrant fabrics of the season.
Before I introduce myself to each person, I can already get a feel of who they are by what they’re wearing. It’s why I approach them in the first place – Maxwell Vice
Any other fun shows we should know about?
Maxwell Vice: Another highlight was the Twink by The Twink Nextdoor runway. You walked into Gaga’s “Bad Romance” playing as margs were served and every model was wearing crazy animal hide or rhinestoned fabric, all holding vapes. Iseder was beautiful too, especially paired with the sound score by Willow Skyfin. Designed by Taylor-Paige Garvin and Sharon Mishiev, it was probably the most sophisticated show of the season. Honestly, the ‘independent’ shows crushed this season.
And finally, what makes NYFW special to you?
Maxwell Vice: The appreciation. I know the kids, the workers, the hair stylists, the photographers who all hustle year-round just so they can be seen and valued for one week. For most of us, it’s the only time we get those special connections that make or break our careers. For me personally, it’s seeing how street culture evolves and articulates someone’s truth without speaking. Before I introduce myself to each person – which I always do because I hate candids – I can already get a feel of who they are by what they’re wearing. It’s why I approach them in the first place.
Scroll through the galleries above to see Vice’s entire SS26 photo diary