In a sea of identikit men handed the reins at the world’s biggest fashion houses, Louise Trotter is a beacon in the dark. The former Joseph and Lacoste designer was then one of just two women entrusted with a creative director role amid the biggest fashion switch-around in recent history, alongside Sarah Burton, who took over from Matthew Williams at Givenchy. With Burton dropping her first Givenchy offering back in February, Saturday night (September 27) saw all eyes turn in the direction of Trotter, as she revealed what she’d been working on for the last nine months at Milan Fashion Week’s SS26 edition. Ticket lost in the mail? We’ve broken down everything you need to know.

TROTTER PULLED IN A MEGAWATT CROWD

Landing in Milan to take it all in came house ambassador Julianne Moore, who chatted pre-show with Everything, Everywhere, All At Once star Michelle Yeoh and OG supermodel Uma Thurman. Also showing up was South Korean rapper RM, who sent fans outside wild as he made his way into the space, and new-gen talent in the form of Owen Cooper, who made waves in Adolescence earlier this year and is set to star as a young Jacob Elordi in Emerald Fennell’s upcoming Wuthering Heights remake. No sign of Bottega stan Elordi himself, though. 

CAT BURNS TOOK US ALONG FOR THE RIDE

What’s a major runway show without a celebrity social media takeover in the year of our lord 2025? This time around, we linked up with musician Cat Burns to go behind the scenes at Bottega Veneta and get a first-hand look at what the lead-up and event itself is like. Watch it here.

THE COLLECTION MIRRORED TROTTER’S MOVE TO MILAN 

It took me a while to fall in love with Milan, which is, to the untrained eye, grey, stark, and industrial in its aesthetic. Seems like Trotter felt the same way. Her SS26 collection opened with a long succession of muted looks that mirrored the palette of the city – from the slate grey of the high-rise towers, to the pale, buttery yellow of its brickwork. Out down the runway came slouchy, oversized trenches crafted from the softest leather, wide-shouldered tailored coats that were buttoned to the throat and cinched at the waist, slick, double-breasted tux jackets, and a standout Intrecciato mackintosh that glinted under the show lights, demonstrating both Trotter and the house’s shared propensity for craftsmanship and detail. 

Also on show were easy-to-wear sheath dresses with bubble hems and straps that slipped sensually off the shoulder, dramatic textured knits, and new takes on the classic white button-down shirt, which was given new structure through draping and folding. It was understated and chic, but despite the palette and the ease of the clothes, it could never be called ‘quiet luxury’ – there was so much to look at, whether that was the bouncing ‘feathers’ dotted across a neat tunic or the choppy yarns tangled up in a slouchy knit.

FALLING IN LOVE WITH A NEW CITY

Slowly, the collection exploded into colour, as Trotter revealed she “started to discover the beauty inside” Milan – from the graffiti that covers the sides of many of its buildings and the terrazzo floors of some of its most beautiful venues, to the flowers that fill its various parks and spill out from the gardens that line the streets. This resulted in some of the offering’s most standout, showstopping looks, as Trotter experimented with new fabrications, like the recycled fibreglass that was utilised throughout. The strands were used to create slinky pencil skirts, boxy jackets and bold-shouldered blouses, the texture of which sat somewhere between fur and feathers. In punchy hues of dandelion, scarlet, and acid yellow, the pieces paid homage to the brand's legacy, but Trotter made it all her own. Paired with simple everyday styles like cotton sweatshirts and tees, the offering demonstrated how important it is to have women designing for women – yes, we want the fashion fantasy, but we also want to see ourselves actually wearing the stuff. 

THE BAGS!!!

If you’ve not seen them plastered all over Instagram by now, you’ve not been paying close enough attention. Bottega bags have always been covetable, but thanks to Trotter they’re even more so this season. The designer went ham with the Intrecciato method, turning out chic little clutches and roomy, fits-everything – or just about – totes. Meanwhile, big duffle bags were transformed into luxury objets d’art using tasselled leather, and oversized pouches were rendered in fuzzy faux fur. Notably, there wasn’t a logo in sight – but when it’s Bottega Veneta, you don’t need to shout about it. The clothes themselves will do the talking.